I really like vintage patterns but it is not always easy to find them in good condition. When Atelier Bernie created its brand, I was delighted to discover its collection of patterns with retro accents while having modern assembly ranges and techniques. 

I had already sewn the Rita dress which I really like. On my wish list, there are still a few models including the pretty Angela dress and its stunning sleeves. The embroidered cottons from the shop caught my eye and went so well with this model! 

Let me tell you about this sewing adventure!

The Angela dress pattern

The Angela dress refers to the activist and feminist Angela Davis who fought against discrimination against minorities in the United States.

It is a simple and elegant model but with plenty of character thanks to its puff sleeves. Its multiple seams on the skirt emphasize the waist and hip curve, then flare out slightly.

Angela is marked by pretty gathers that highlight the bust. Its neckline is round but open.

You have the option to make a simple or open back finished with a pretty button/bow at the nape. 

Two dress lengths are offered: short (above the knee) or midi. You can also add a slit on the long version.

Practical information for sewing Angela

The printed version of Angela is available in store for €17.5 or as a PDF version for €10 directly on the website of its creator, Morgane. 

The pattern is available from size 32 (which will therefore suit teenagers) up to 50 for more voluptuous women. Note that the bust and underbust measurements are very fitted; so be sure to check these two measurements carefully before choosing your size. 

Angela is an intermediate level dress with a 3/5 rating according to the designer’s scale, and I think this is quite justified given the technical points we will cover below. 

Morgane estimates the sewing time at 7 hours to make this dress.

In the seamstress’s basket

To sew Angela, you will need woven fabric. You can use cotton poplin, broderie anglaise, embroidered cottons, viscose poplins, tencel, light denim, washed linen, crepe... in short, Angela can be made from many fabrics to create a flowing or more structured look depending on your desires. It just isn’t suitable for stretch fabrics. 

So in our basket, there will be:

• fabric (see table above)
• some good quality matching thread (200m spool) 
• a 6mm flat elastic for the sleeves (1m)
• an invisible zipper of 50/60cm for the closed back and if you choose the open back version, you will need a zipper of about 20cm. 

My supplies

I completely fell for the embroidered cottons from the shop and there was one that really caught my eye. Its lovely pink, green, ochre colors and beautiful embroidery stole my heart. I wanted to work with it to create a very romantic dress. Since the embroidered cotton is light and slightly transparent, I chose to fully line the dress with a white cotton voile. 

I used 9mm elastic for the sleeves because I wanted something comfortable that would hold the volume of the puff sleeves well. 

I chose a 60cm invisible zipper, which is much easier to find in stores.  

I also added to my supplies some calico toile to make a size validation toile before cutting my pretty embroidered cotton (and I’m glad I did!). 

Technical points

Angela is rated intermediate level 3/5 and for good reason. Indeed, it includes quite a few technical points:  

• Sewing clips
• making gathers
• assembling the bodice
• assembling the skirt panels (without mixing up the direction) 
• attaching the bodice to the skirt
• sewing an invisible zipper
• sewing a facing for the unlined version or sewing a lining 
• making a slit for the open back version or the skirt slit version
• making a hem
• assembling sleeves
• creating a casing and threading elastic
• sewing elastic

I think it's already quite a good sewing project. 

My sewing experience

As I mentioned earlier, Angela is very fitted at the bust and underbust. So I took my measurements carefully. I decided to make a toile in size 38 even though with other pattern brands I usually wear a 34 or even 36. I was right not to be influenced because size 38 was already quite fitted! 

So I recommend you do the same if you want to sew this pretty pattern to avoid ending up with a dress you might not be able to fit into.

Since my fabric is very light, I chose to fully line the dress with a white cotton voile. For this, I replaced the facing and recut all the dress pieces (except the facings and sleeves which I chose not to line). So I ended up sewing two complete dresses: one in the pretty embroidered cotton and one in the cotton voile that serves as the lining. 

For your information, I overlocked all the pieces of my dress; so I spent more than the 7 hours indicated by Morgane because I added extra work for myself 😂. 

When my "two dresses" were ready, I installed the zipper on the embroidered cotton.

Finally, I assembled the lining to the dress and to the zipper.  Last step: the sleeves! I attached them directly to the embroidered cotton and the lining. I made the casing, threaded the elastic... 

I cut the lining so it would be slightly shorter than the embroidered cotton and I made hems at the bottom of the dress. Ta-da, the dress was finally finished! 

I loved sewing it and changing the assembly process a bit to create this very pretty dress that I will wear to my friends’ wedding: Patricia and Benjamin who are getting married in 15 days!  I’m really happy with the result and I know I will wear it with joy! 

And you, do you like retro patterns? 

I still have a few Atelier Bernie models in sight especially since my students have also started sewing them during the courses. The results are always top-notch!

You will find the Atelier Bernie pattern range in the shop. Feel free to take a look because they are really fun to make.

There are still a few meters left of our beautiful embroidered cottons including the one for the dress, so don’t wait too long if you also want to make some pretty light outfits. 

Come on girls and gentlemen, grab your needles!