For several months now, we have been expanding our selection of patterns in the shop. We find it important to promote independent designers and contribute to the recognition of their work.
It was during my research that I met Sandy, the creator of Théodora Pattern. I was eager to test her patterns and chose the beautiful Gabrielle dress. I must say I immediately fell for Gabrielle; this cottage core dress was missing from my wardrobe!
So without further ado, let's go!
The model
The Gabrielle dress features a beautiful square neckline that gives this cottage core-inspired dress its character. The square neckline is one of the few that flatters both small and large busts.
Appearing corseted, the top is comfortable and adjustable to flatter all bust sizes. There are no boning or tightening ties, which adds to its comfort.
The opening is hidden on the side by an invisible zipper.
The Gabrielle dress has options with ruffles at the armholes to create volume, if desired. It is also possible to omit them for a cleaner dress.
The long skirt lengthens the silhouette to ensure a femme fatale look, while the short version makes it easier to wear daily.
Gabrielle therefore offers us several versions:
- long or short skirt
- with sleeve
- with ruffle
- sleeveless and without ruffle.
Something to have fun creating very different versions!
Practical information for sewing this model
Gabrielle is a pattern created by Sandy, the designer of Théodora Pattern. All Théodora Pattern patterns are available in PDF format on our website.
The dress is available in sizes 34 to 46, which corresponds to a bust measurement of 80cm to 104cm and a waist measurement of 64 to 84cm.
Seam allowances are included and assembling the sheets is really simple. It took me about an hour to assemble and cut out the paper pattern pieces to create my dress.
The pattern height is 1.70 m. You can, if you wish, shorten or lengthen the torso at the waist for the top of the dress.
The long skirt has a height of 1 m from waist to feet. You can shorten or lengthen the bottom of the skirt by the desired length. For the short version, the skirt length is 50 cm from the waist and should reach above the knee.
In the seamstress's basket
Gabrielle is designed to be sewn with lightweight woven fabrics (without elastane) such as: cotton poplin, batiste, viscose poplin, cotton or viscose satin, plumetis, crepe, silk, tightly woven linen, cotton-viscose…
To sew Gabrielle, you will need:
- Short version: 1.7 m of fabric 140 cm wide in all sizes
- Long version: 1.7 m of fabric 140 cm wide for sizes 34 to 40 and 2.5 m for sizes 42 to 46.
- 45 cm of fusible interfacing
- Haberdashery 40 cm invisible zipper or 60 cm
- optional: 2 m of lace trim to personalize the ruffles
- coordinated thread to the fabric.
For the equipment, I recommend having a bias turner or a guide passer to easily turn the bodice ties.
My version and my supplies
It was my first time sewing a pattern from the brand Theodora Pattern. So I carefully studied the size chart before starting the making. I chose to make the dress in size 36, which almost exactly matches my measurements in the size chart. Note that Gabrielle is a fitted dress; if you hesitate between two sizes, choose the larger one.
I chose to make the short version with ruffle and no sleeves.
For my supplies, I chose a 3m coupon from our joly coupons; I had fallen for a pretty floral from the brand Art Gallery fabric back in May. I was waiting for the right project to use it, and I do not regret my pattern/fabric combination at all!
I chose a 60cm invisible zipper in the same color as my fabric. I always prefer to use 60cm invisible zippers for my dresses; I find it much more comfortable to get in and out, especially when you have "full" hips.
Difficulty level and technical points
For me, Gabrielle is a dress with quite a few technical points. It is suitable for intermediate and advanced sewists. Intermediate levels will find great technical challenges, while the more advanced will really enjoy assembling this dress for which Sandy created "real" beautiful finishes!
To sew Gabrielle, you will need:
- creating ties
- creating casings
- creating gathers
- sewing a lined bodice
- assembling ruffles and sleeves according to the chosen option
- applying an invisible bias
- creating a skirt slit
- hemming
- finishing armholes (hidden bias)
My sewing experience
I sewed the Gabrielle dress in two sewing sessions of 2h30 each, plus 1 hour of finishing. The sewing itself took me 6h30, to which you need to add about two small hours for assembling the PDF pattern and cutting the pieces from the fabric.
Since I had little time, I paid close attention to the size chart to carefully select the size that seemed to suit me best. I did not make a toile. However, I recommend making a toile of the bustier if you have a bit more time so you can adjust the straps to your stature and check that the bodice flatters your bust well.
I was very lucky because the bodice fits me perfectly. The tightening ties allow for adjustment, which is really clever on Sandy's part.
During my first 2.5-hour sewing session, I:
- overlocked all my pieces
- sewed the skirt with its slit
- created the bodice ties
- attached the back
- attached the balconette of the front bodice
During my second 2.5-hour sewing session, I:
- finished assembling the bodice
- made a rolled hem with the serger on the bottom of the ruffles and attached them
- assembled the bodice to the skirt
- installed the invisible zipper
- hemmed it
The last 1-hour session allowed me to finish the armhole bindings and add small snaps to sew onto the straps. Since I didn't make a toile and didn't adjust the height, the straps are just a little too long.
They slip a bit off my shoulders... but no worries, I made two small ties with invisible snaps that let me attach the dress straps to the bra straps... ta-da, no one notices and the straps stay put!
I'm going to shorten the straps by 2cm on my pattern pieces so the next ones stay in place without this trick.
To be honest, I really enjoyed sewing this dress, both because of the technical details, the finishes offered by Sandy, and the choice of fabric!
A really lovely sewing moment, a true lifesaver in a busy week! The magic of sewing, I'm sure you know exactly what I mean!
I'm thrilled with my new dress, let's hope the weather lets me wear it many times this summer!
I love the model, the pattern/fabric combination... I feel good wearing it... in short, it's a beloved and approved sewing project!
I think I'll sew more models by Sandy and her brand Théodora Pattern. The Molène dress is actually catching my eye 😂. You can find her entire range in the shop along with other great brands. Feel free to discover them here
And you? Are you tempted by this kind of pattern?
So all that's left to do is get started!
Get your needles ready!
