I had planned to make my little summer tops after my patternmaking training at IAM patterns which was supposed to end in March... Due to Covid, the bodice part was postponed to September and I couldn’t draft my own summer tops.

So I solved the difficulty by literally falling for the Ségur pattern from Cozy Little World, whose many versions I had seen on Instagram.
It was also an opportunity to test the beautiful double gauzes that I added to my shop, including the one that caught my eye, the mimosa.

Ségur comes in 70 variations, whether as a top (50 variations) or a dress (20 variations); buttoned in front, at the back, with ruffles, elastic... the possibilities are many and varied!

The first thing I appreciate about this pattern is its simple and effective look as a small summer top that can be adapted almost infinitely; to wear over shorts or a skirt... It has a fairly timeless and versatile design; which for me is very much appreciated when buying a printed pattern.

Moreover, it can be recycled from summer to summer without any problem.

Another positive point is that it can be adapted to wear as lingerie or even as a slip dress if you choose your fabrics well.

A third, significant advantage is that it is bra-compatible, meaning the back neckline does not dip too low, so as not to reveal the bra band.

I made two simple versions with front buttoning for the mimosa version and back buttoning for the blue floral version.

The first is in a double gauze with mimosa patterns from the kokka brand that you can find in my shop. A real pleasure to sew! The second was sewn in a blue Japanese chirimen with white flowers brought back from Japan. The blue buttons come from a small Spanish haberdashery and the yellow ones from Veritas.

Ségur is available as a printed pattern for 15.90 euros on the brand's website and in haberdasheries, and as a PDF for 8 euros.

Ségur is available from size 34 to 52. It is therefore suitable for:

• bust measurements between 80 and 122cm
• waist measurements between 60 and 102cm
• hip measurements between 86 and 128cm

For tracing the pattern, be sure to refer to the instructions to know which pieces are needed for the chosen variation. The instructions are simple and clear; it's hard to go wrong if you follow the explanatory guide.

Important, seam allowances are not included, so you will need to add them according to the guide's specifications.

In the seamstress's basket, you will find to sew Ségur:

• a fluid fabric like viscose, a pretty poplin, a liberty, a double gauze, or why not Japanese chirimen.
• lining (or facing to cut from the fabric)
• buttons depending on the versions
• fusible interfacing

Ségur in top version is very economical.

Indeed, I was able to fit my size 36 top version into a 60cm mimosa double gauze coupon with a width of 110cm using a lining fabric for the facing.

This version therefore cost me 10.8 euros of fabric from my shop, a scrap of yellow fabric for the facing, and 2 euros for buttons (they were in the bargain basket); here is a nice top for under 15 euros.

The other version fit into a 1m chirimen coupon with a width of 110cm by cutting the facing from the fabric. I did a bit of Tetris; but it fit! I wouldn't know how to calculate the cost price of that one. The chirimen comes from the promo bin at Nomura Tailor in Kyoto.

Ségur is rated from 1/4 to 3/4 in difficulty level by the brand. I made simple versions and I must say these are simple and quick to make.

I sewed both in about 1h30 each without rushing.

The technical points are:

• overlock or hemming the facing with some curved stitching
• placing the straps and sewing the facing
• "notching" the seams for proper placement of the facing and blind stitching (for those who want)
• making the bottom hems (taking care to secure the facing)
• buttonholes

I think Ségur is a good basic pattern accessible even to beginners.

The booklet instructions are clear, and by following them well, there will be no problem sewing your beautiful top!

I think I will sew a few more versions next spring.

Now, it's really time to move on to the winter collection.

And you, what will you sew in the coming months? Make me dream in the comments ;-)