Today, I wanted to talk to you about a sewing technique that I particularly like to use in my projects, especially for more delicate fabrics.

Yes, we are going to talk about the English seam, or as the English call it, the French seam!

What is the English seam or French seam?

The English seam (French seam in English) is a sewing technique that allows for very "clean" finishes. It is therefore a finishing technique.

This technique produces a very neat result on the wrong side of the fabric. Indeed, no raw edges are visible. This technique can replace the overlock stitch of your serger or the zigzag stitch of your sewing machine.

Moreover, this technique offers a very neat, aesthetic, and strong result; which will help your garment last over time. The first blouses I made when I started sewing were made with English seams, and even today, the seams are perfect (I was very careful) and I wear them often without the wear of time taking its toll!

To make an English seam, you need to sew in two successive steps. First, sew a straight stitch on the right side of the fabric, then cover this first seam with a second line of stitches. I will explain the technique in detail below.

Why make an English seam and on what types of fabrics?

As you have understood, the English seam allows for "luxury" finishes because they are very neat and help garments last over time... far from fast fashion.

With this double seam, the fabric is much less likely to fray.

The English seam is particularly useful for fine fabrics like viscose, but also cotton poplin, cotton lawn... especially when you want to avoid overlocking or spending time doing zigzag stitches on raw edges. It is also useful for sewing transparent fabrics to hide seam allowances that might be visible.

Advantages of the English seam

I really like making this seam because it has many advantages.

• Luxury finish, it gives a little luxurious touch to your creation
• Strong and durable over time
• Neat and very clean
• Prevents edges from fraying
• Can replace lining in some types of garments
• Useful for fine and transparent garments
• Replaces overlock and zigzag stitches
• Good for sensitive skin because you don’t feel the seam

Points to watch out for

The English seam also requires some attention. Indeed, this seam is not easy to sew on curves, even impossible if the curve is very sharp. It is therefore mostly done in straight lines for garment sides, shoulder seams, sleeve sides...

For the English seam, you need to be meticulous. You must sew two straight seams (really straight) at the same distance and accept that it will take a bit more time than a simple overlock with a serger.

The English seam is not suitable for thick fabrics because it creates a "small tube" inside the garment that could turn into an unsightly "big tube" in your seams with thick fabrics.

How to make it?

Necessary materials

To make your English seam, you will need your sewing machine equipped with the needle suitable for your thread. You can also sew it by hand. You will also need thread suitable for your fabric and a pair of embroidery scissors. Using an iron is also recommended.

Steps

To make your English seam:

• Place the two pieces of fabric to be joined wrong sides together.
• Sew your first seam 5mm from the edge.
• Press your seam open with an iron, then flatten the seam allowances.
• Trim 2 to 3mm of your seam allowances with embroidery scissors for more precision.
• Place your fabrics right sides together again.
• Sew a second time 5mm from the edge of your fabric. The first seam is enclosed within the second.

There you go, you now know everything about the English seam! Want to try it?

Then, get your needles ready!