Today, I wanted to talk to you about a sewing technique that I particularly like to use in my sewing projects, especially for more delicate fabrics. 

Yes, we are going to talk about the English seam or, for the English, the french seam! 

What is the English seam or french seam?

The English seam (french seam in English) is a sewing technique that allows for very "clean" finishes. It is therefore a finishing technique.

This technique produces a very neat result on the wrong side of the fabric. Indeed, no raw edges are visible. This technique can replace the overlock stitch of your serger or the zigzag stitch of your sewing machine.

Moreover, this technique offers a very neat, aesthetic, and strong result; which will allow your garment to last over time. The first blouses I made when I started sewing were made with English seams and even today, the seams are perfect (I was very careful) and I wear them often without wear and tear showing! 

To make an English seam, you need to sew in two successive steps. First, sew a straight stitch on the right side of the fabric, then cover this first seam with a second line of stitches. I will explain the technique in detail below. 

Why make an English seam and on what types of fabrics?

As you can see, the English seam allows for "luxury" finishes because they are very neat and help garments last over time... far from fast fashion. 

With this double seam, the fabric will be much less likely to fray.

The French seam is particularly useful for fine fabrics such as viscose, but also cotton poplins, cotton lawn... especially when you want to avoid overlocking or spending time doing zigzag stitches on raw edges. It is also useful for sewing transparent fabrics to hide seam allowances that might be visible. 

Advantages of the English seam

I really like making this seam because it has many advantages. 

• Luxury finish, it gives a little luxurious touch to your creation
• Strong and durable over time
• Clean and very neat
• Prevents edges from fraying
• Can replace lining in certain types of construction
• Useful for thin and transparent garments
• Replaces overlock and zigzag
• Useful for sensitive skin because you don’t feel the seam

Points of attention 

The English seam also requires some attention points. Indeed, this seam is not easy to make on curves, even impossible if the curve is very sharp. It is therefore made more in a straight line for the sides of the garment, shoulder seams, sleeve sides...

For the English seam, you have to be meticulous. Indeed, you must make two straight seams (really straight) at the same distance and accept that it will take a little more time than a simple overlock stitch. 

The English seam is not done on thick fabrics because it creates a "small tube" inside the garment that could turn into an unsightly "big tube" in your seams if the fabric is thick. 

How to make it?

Necessary materials

To make your French seam, you will need your sewing machine equipped with the needle suitable for your thread. You can also sew it by hand. You will also need thread suitable for your fabric and a pair of embroidery scissors. The use of an iron is also recommended. 

The steps

To make your English seam:

• Place the two pieces of fabric to be joined wrong sides together. 
• Stitch your first seam 5mm from the edge
• Press open your seam with an iron and then flatten them 
• Trim 2 to 3mm of your seam allowances with embroidery scissors for more precision
• place your fabrics right sides together again
• and stitch a second time 5mm from the edge of your fabric. The first seam is enclosed within the second.   

There you go, now you know everything about the English seam! Want to try?

So, get your needles ready!