Sewing a shirt is not so difficult... so why not three? The challenge!

Since I started sewing, my goal has been to sew my own clothes. Later on, I added the goal of having a thoughtfully handmade wardrobe. As if that wasn't enough, for the past 2 years I've involved my boyfriend in my passion and have been sewing pieces for his wardrobe too, including his famous shirts! 

We have a kind of "deal": for every shirt that's too small, damaged, or torn... I sew him a replacement. Lockdown and remote work kept me away from the "shirt mission," but since work resumed in person about a year ago, the shirts have also gone back to work! So, I had to keep my promises and replace the worn-out shirts. 

I had made a beautiful shirt for Valentine's Day in Japanese fabrics with an asanoha pattern, and my boyfriend was so happy to receive it that I told him (a bit naively, I admit): "if you want, I can make you more" ... well, he took me at my word, choosing 3 Japanese fabrics from the shop for me to make him 3 beautiful shirts. 

Today, I'm sharing my shirt challenge and my sewing tips! 

The model and the shirt patterns

The shirt is a complex and quite technical garment. So it's a garment to sew when you are experienced in sewing (or very motivated). There are quite a few technical points to execute precisely, especially regarding the finishes. 

I don't know if you know this, but there are a huge number of shirt models/variants. We're used to buying "standard" shirts in stores, but there are many variations if you pay attention. You can choose different types of collars (Italian, English, round...), cuffs (broken, Neapolitan...), closed with buttons or cufflinks, fitted shirts or not, etc. In short, the variations are endless since you can combine them!

To sew a shirt and therefore choose the most appropriate pattern, I invite you to look at the types of shirts the person likes to wear. I say this from experience because my boyfriend doesn’t wear the shirt I made him with an Italian collar because he doesn’t feel comfortable in it. For me, it’s quite frustrating to have spent so many hours on a pattern that is ultimately not worn! So, I pay close attention to the patterns. 

To make these 3 new shirts, I used a resource book, a true gem of guidance: "Les chemises" by Ryuichiro Shimazaki. This book is published by Editions de Saxe (I only sell it in the physical store). It is my shirt bible, if only for the technical assembly explanations. 

In this book, you will find instructions to make 26 men's patterns in 4 sizes (S, M, L, and XL). 14 patterns are dedicated to so-called "dress" shirts and 12 to so-called "casual" shirts. Note, since this book is translated from Japanese, the sizes are adapted to that audience. Height ranges from 1.55m to 1.95m. Chest circumference ranges from 90 to 98cm, waist circumference from 78 to 86cm, and neck circumference from 39 to 43.5cm. If you are sewing for a larger build, this book will probably not be suitable unless you know how to grade a pattern to the right size.

For my loved one, I make the classic shirt with buttoned cuffs. 


Other patterns are also great for starting to make shirts. 

For men

I highly recommend the elegant pattern from Les Beaux Gosses. It is well tailored and available from XS to XXL. It comes in a fitted or regular version. Many people have made it and the reviews are always positive. I've also seen quite a few women make it for themselves even though it is originally a "men's" shirt. 

For those who want a short-sleeve version, it is possible to make the "le Surfeur" pattern, also from Les Beaux Gosses.

For women

I really like the Adeline shirt by Coralie Bijasson and Herwin overshirt by Atelier des premières. Among other patterns I like just as much, there is Jolaine from République du chiffon but also Hermès from Iam Patterns.

Finally, for those who want to start their first shirt, there is also Lucienne from Iam Patterns which is easier to make. 

There are many others with or without ruffles, sleeve slits or not... in short, there is definitely a choice!

The elegant from Beaux Gosses

Adeline by Coralie Bijasson

The surfer from Beaux Gosses

My supplies 

To make the three shirts, I used Japanese fabric

usually, about 1.7m of fabric with a width of 140cm is needed to make a men's shirt. To make it in Japanese fabric since the width is 110cm, I count one front length, one back length, and one sleeve length to which I add 30cm for the collar, cuffs... 

This gives about 2.1m to 2.5m depending on the gentleman's stature. For my boyfriend who is over one meter eighty, I count on 2.4m.

My darling chose for his three shirts:

- a very floral Japanese fabric where little black cats are hidden

- a white Japanese fabric with a golden sakura pattern

- a white cotton poplin for which I sewed the collars and cuffs in blue floral Japanese fabric. This fabric comes from a purchase in Japan and was originally intended for me to create a dress. 

I chose a good quality coordinated thread for each shirt and buttons from my personal collection. For a shirt, it is recommended to choose buttons about 11 to 14mm. 

Finally, I chose the H200 fusible interfacing for the button plackets, cuffs, and collars. 

Technical points

The shirt is a technical garment to make but it teaches you a lot! 

The technical points are:

  • The shaping darts
  • the lined back yoke
  • assembling the sleeves
  • the flat-felled seams
  • the button placket
  • assembling the collar and collar stand
  • the buttonholes
  • assembling the cuff with a tear-proof slit
  • the hems
  • ...

My sewing experience

I think you all know, I have a busy life that requires me to be organized in my projects. 

When I sew the same project multiple times, I move step by step, working in parallel on all the pieces. Here, I cut the three shirts, then I do the assembly steps for all three shirts, etc. This saves me quite a bit of time.

I have to say I love sewing shirts. Here are my little tips to make everything go smoothly.

1. Mark all the pattern marks correctly: darts, matching points, ...

2. Don’t forget to fuse/interfacing the button plackets, collars and collar stands, but also the cuffs

3. Use a buttonhole ruler for button spacing; it’s so much easier!

4. Don’t rush! Take your time, especially for more complicated assemblies

5. Dare to contrast the collars, cuffs... choose unexpected patterns, original buttons so your creation is unique!


Buttonhole ruler

Contrast

The first steps of the three shirts simultaneously

It's always a pleasure to sew for others when a smile accompanies the delivery. I can tell you that my boyfriend was more than smiling when he received his shirts and that he wore the floral one the very next day to go to the office 😊 

So, are you up for the shirt challenge?

Get your needles ready!

1 thought on “Sewing a shirt is not so difficult... so why not three? The challenge!

t4s-avatar
jan

bonjour Eugénie ,et merci encore pour le panel d informations et vos différentes idées pour ces belles chemises , toujours un plaisir de vous lire

May 13, 2023 at 06:57am

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