Double gauze is one of my favorite fabrics when the warm days return... it's true that double gauze is often associated with babies, as an airy, crinkled fabric sometimes shapeless... not at all! Today, double gauze has evolved and has become a staple in women's wardrobes! It is used for blouses, dresses, light camisoles, but also for slips and comfortable pajamas in hot weather.
Moreover, double gauze is not very difficult to work with. Once you have the right techniques, it’s actually a pleasure to sew!
Let’s dive together into the world of this beautiful fabric!
What is double gauze?
To understand what double gauze is, I first need to tell you about gauze (single gauze).
Gauze is a very fine, very light, and very airy fabric. Gauze is made by weaving spaced threads, which makes it transparent. It is therefore classified as a "warp and weft" fabric. Gauze has a weave called "leno" in English or "pas de gaze" in French. To create this particular weave: two warp threads cross around the weft threads. Simply put, the threads are spaced but interlaced (with twists), which allows the fabric to be very airy yet stable; this is very important to prevent deformation. Today, there are three methods to create these famous twists: the French, English, and Japanese methods.
And what about double gauze?
As you might have guessed, double gauze is made by combining two layers of gauze. These two layers are attached together at regular intervals using small stitches that hold the whole fabric. These stitches are so discreet that they are invisible to the naked eye on quality double gauze. If you can see the stitching points between the two layers, keep looking elsewhere!
Combining these two layers of gauze counters a disadvantage of single gauze, which is woven with spaced threads; double gauze is therefore much less transparent! This also means you don’t necessarily have to line double gauze, which is very comfortable and can be worn directly against the skin. Additionally, having these two layers results in a slightly heavier fabric with a nice drape comparable to linen.
Advantages and points to consider
Due to its weave and composition, double gauze has many advantages. Indeed, it is:- lightweight
- airy
- breathable
- absorbent
- comfortable on the skin
- soft
- fluid
- reversible
- easy to care for — it doesn’t need ironing and dries very quickly.
These characteristics explain why it is so often used for baby and toddler clothing but also for summer garments. It’s no surprise that it developed so quickly in Asia and Japan, where many regions have hot and humid climates. Double gauze met the need for lightweight, breathable, and comfortable clothing.
Another appreciated feature is that since double gauze consists of two layers of gauze, manufacturers can make it reversible with different patterns or colors on each side. This is what Atelier Brunette has done in its new double gauze vichy collection, where you find large and small checks on each side. This is great for sewing projects, especially to play with collars, yokes, cuffs, sleeves, dress ruffles... you just need a bit of creativity to create original pieces!
Some points to consider for double gauze:
Double gauze has a crinkled look (after washing), so it doesn’t require ironing. However, if the garment dries on a line, an unsightly crease may appear, so always dry your garment flat. You can also steam the garment without touching it (or use a steamer at a distance).
Double gauze can be slightly transparent, especially the white one; in this case, I recommend lining it with a lightweight white cotton voile to preserve the intrinsic qualities of double gauze.
How to sew double gauze?
For cutting your pattern, I strongly recommend pinning your pieces well! Indeed, double gauze moves more than cotton poplin but less than viscose, so don’t worry. This is actually a good step / exercise before cutting viscose if you’re still working on your first projects. If you’re not comfortable, you can also lightly starch your double gauze for more stability when cutting.
Regarding pins, always choose fine pins to prepare assembling your pieces. This will help avoid snags and small holes in your beautiful fabric. For machine needles, proceed the same way by choosing a fine needle; a standard size 70 needle can work, or even better, you can invest in a microtex needle (size 60) which will give you a more regular stitch. For thread, nothing changes; keep using good quality polyester thread: Gütermann, Mettler, etc.
What to sew with double gauze?
Today, double gauze is used to make swaddles, sleeping bags, soft toys, children’s clothing like pajamas, dresses, and summer skirts. Adults are not left out, especially women’s clothing, as double gauze is very popular for scarves, tops, and summer dresses, but it is increasingly used in men’s clothing, especially for summer shirts.I have personally made a few summer pieces in double gauze, including my Ségur top (you can find the article on the blog) in a mimosa double gauze that I happily wear during summer heat waves. It feels like wearing nothing because it’s so light and breathable. I also like making dresses in double gauze for trips to Japan in summer—it’s really perfect—as well as light blouses.
So, to summarize double gauze for which patterns?
- tops: camisole, blouse, tunic...
- skirts
- dresses
- a loose shirt
- nightwear: pajamas, slips
- baby items: muslin cloths, soft toys, summer blankets, lightweight clothes...
The only real constraint is to choose a pattern with ease.
Ségur top in Japanese double gauze
White double gauze with plumetis and embroidery yoke
So, ready to take on the challenge of sewing double gauze?
I already have my idea for the next sewing project.
So, grab your needles!
