Linen is a natural fiber, the only one still produced locally: a true short supply chain product!

In constant search of quality products, as environmentally friendly as possible for my shop, I had to tell you about linen and offer it to you.

When you think of linen, you probably imagine thick heavy toiles or wrinkly clothes... hold on, I’ll stop you there! Technology has evolved greatly and has been used to improve textiles to counter the small flaws linen can have.  

So let’s dive into the world of linen and its little blue flowers that colored the fields of my childhood village. 

A bit of history: linen

Linen has been known to humans for millennia. Indeed, the earliest traces of its use date back to Georgia in 36,000 BC! The pharaohs cultivated it in the Nile Valley, where it was used in funerary rites. 

It was the Phoenicians who introduced linen to Europe. In the 8th century, Charlemagne promoted its cultivation and craftsmanship. From the 9th century, linen became the primary textile fiber used in France. It remained unrivaled for nearly 10 centuries! It wasn’t until the arrival of cotton and the mechanization of its spinning and weaving in the 19th century that this changed. Linen then fell into oblivion until the end of World War II when Flemish farmers moved to northern France and southern Belgium to revive its cultivation. This gave a second life to the cultivation of this beautiful little blue flower! 

Today, linen cultivation in our regions covers 75,000 hectares and accounts for 85% of the world’s linen production. 

How is linen produced, harvested, and woven today?

I offer you this short explanatory video that perfectly and clearly summarizes the production steps of the linen industry.

What is washed linen?

Washed linen is, in a way, an improved version of linen. You may have seen in the report that once the linen is woven, it can undergo various finishing steps: dyeing, ...

To make washed linen, as the name suggests, the linen toile undergoes several washes at high temperature using ecological softeners as well as drum drying. These steps make the fiber less rough and reduce wrinkling.

Washed linen is therefore just as ecological as its raw version but is better suited for clothing. 

Advantages of washed linen

Why use washed linen for your sewing projects, you ask? 

There are direct ecological and economic reasons. Indeed, by buying linen, you help support the local French, Belgian, and Dutch economy while limiting your ecological impact. Linen requires no watering (thanks to our weather) and very few phytosanitary products. 

For sewists, washed linen 

• offers a soft touch thanks to the finishing it received after weaving
• has a nice patina effect right from purchase with a beautiful texture 
• comes in an infinite range of colors
• has a color that stays stable over time (it doesn’t fade and keeps its brightness) 
• has a nice drape: heavy and fluid
• breathes... unlike synthetic materials... it lets air through in summer and gives a natural feeling of freshness
• is absorbent but doesn’t leave moisture stains under the armpits when drying
• is biodegradable and eco-friendly
• is stronger than cotton (it holds up well over time)
• is considered an anti-allergenic and antibacterial fabric
• does not pill

So many advantages! 

A few points to keep in mind nonetheless. 

Firstly, linen is a natural material, so it must be washed before sewing to prevent any later fiber shrinkage. 

On the other hand, linen tends to fray on raw edges. Zigzag stitches, sergers, or flat-felled seams will be your allies when sewing linen! 

What to sew with washed linen?

Linen has a beautiful structure and a fairly heavy drape. So prefer patterns that will highlight these qualities. 

Patterns featuring drapes as well as those inspired by summer wardrobes will be perfect! I’m thinking especially of saharianas, belted shirt dresses, but also loose light blouses, summer jackets, loose pants...

How to sew washed linen? Is it suitable for sewing beginners?

Linen is very easy to sew and is one of the fabrics I recommend when starting sewing. Indeed, it doesn’t slip, it’s durable (and therefore forgiving of mistakes and seam ripping), it stays flat while sewing... in short, pure joy!

For the rest, don’t forget to securely finish the raw edges to prevent fraying and use a standard needle. And off you go to sew beautiful things! 

So, ready to try washed linen? Discover our collection in the shop! 

Get your needles ready!