How to find your way around sweatshirt fabrics?

It’s not always easy to navigate the types of textiles! Choosing the right fabric so the garment drapes well, feels nice, and looks good isn’t so simple when you’re starting out... I remember my first steps in sewing and thought that learning took time, with trial and error... but that’s part of the process!

So today, (let’s learn from my mistakes 😊) I suggest we dive deeper into fabric choices for making sweatshirts (but this also works for cardigans and knit jackets). Let’s go, here’s the overview!

First of all, let’s revisit the concept of knit fabrics

Knit fabrics are knitted textiles (not woven like poplins, twill, satin...)

Because of this knit structure, knit fabrics have much more elasticity; it is this elasticity that allows you to pull a t-shirt over your head without needing an opening (zipper, button...) which is necessary to get into a fitted woven garment.

This family of knitted knits includes many types often called "jersey"...

Advantages of sewing knit fabrics

There are also many advantages to sewing knit fabrics:

they are often very soft against the skin
because of their elasticity and softness, they are comfortable
because of their elasticity, the patterns are less fitted and the sewing projects "tolerate" approximation better
they wrinkle little
they do not fray
there is a wide variety of knit fabric from the finest to the thickest and warmest
it comes in different materials: cotton, viscose, modal

Points of attention

To succeed with your knit sewing projects, there are several points to keep in mind:

choose the right needle = a jersey or stretch needle
use the overlocker (overlock stitch) or the zigzag stitches on the sewing machine to maintain the fabric’s elasticity
test and retest on scraps to check the tension and get the hang of it so you don’t stretch your fabric (and thus avoid puckering).

If you keep these 4 key points in mind, sewing jersey should no longer scare you!

Let’s look together at the most common knit fabrics used for making sweatshirts.

Classic jersey

Classic jersey is a single-layer knit fabric. It’s often used to make t-shirts, tops, blouses, wrap tops... I also like to use it for raglan sleeves on my sweatshirts because it offers a wide range of patterns and is often cheaper than french terry or fleece. This allows for creativity and also helps use up large jersey scraps.

Jersey has a smooth side with small “v” shapes and a wavy side that looks like waves. Classic jersey is often relatively thin and weighs around 200g/m2.

You’ll find a wide range of it in the shop.

French terry or looped jersey or sweatshirt fabric

At the very start of my sewing journey, I thought these were two different types of fabric... since then I know it’s the same fabric (just named differently in French and English)!

The french terry is the knit fabric par excellence for making cool sweatshirts. You can find very pretty ones with various patterns. Like classic jersey, french terry has small V shapes on the front, and on the back, you’ll see loops, which is where its French name comes from.

Heavier than classic jersey, usually starting at 250g/m2, it is perfect for making sweaters, sweatshirts, and mid-season cardigans, for example.

Brushed or sanded french terry, also called fleece

From the outside, fleece looks like other french terry fabrics, but inside it is much softer and plusher. Unlike french terry, which has pretty loops on the reverse side, these loops have been brushed away through a mechanical process, creating a very soft "felt-like" texture. This nap is created by brushing the fabric to bring out the fibers.

Because of this texture, fleece is perfect for making winter sweatshirts (pullovers, cardigans, jackets...) or at least for the cold season. Often fleece is made of cotton but it can also be a blend of cotton and polyester. In the shop, you will find it in cotton but also blended with recycled polyester.

It’s a fairly easy fabric to sew for beginners learning to sew jersey.

Interlock

Interlock, like Ponte and Milano, is a double-knit fabric, meaning it consists of two layers of fabric (just like double gauze). You can recognize it because on both sides you can see the small V shapes on the front, with the "waves" hidden in the center of the fabric.

Thicker and less stretchy than cotton jersey, interlock is ideal for straight garments like sweaters, jackets, or skirts. However, it can also be used to sew sweatshirts.

Tubular or strip ribbing

Ribbing is strips of knit fabric (knitted in ribs) that are sewn onto the edge of a garment. That’s actually where their name comes from: elastic knits knitted in ribs that are placed on an edge.

The ribs are aligned with the grain; in other words, the knitted lines you see are aligned with the grain. Most of the time, the ribbing is quite compact, and its composition can vary (lurex, elastane...).

You will find a nice selection of ribbing in strips or tubular in the shop..