Not sure which thread to choose for your Sashiko embroidery?
Don’t worry, you’re definitely not alone! This is THE question we hear most often, both in the shop and during our introductory classes to traditional Japanese embroidery, the famous Sashiko: “But Eugénie, which thread should I embroider with?!”
So today I wanted to show you everything: all the brands, all the ranges and all the little subtleties of our Sashiko threads. And believe me, there are plenty!
We’re really proud to have brought together such a large collection here in Brussels. And the good news is that we ship throughout Europe. Whether you are in France, the Netherlands or Germany, you can order from home. But before diving into the different brands, I’d like to take a step back and explain what Sashiko really is, and above all why choosing the right thread matters so much. Because no, you don’t just pick any thread to get started!
What is Sashiko?
Sashiko (刺し子) is an ancestral form of Japanese embroidery made with small, regular stitches, often arranged in geometric patterns. Born during the Edo period, this technique was originally used to repair, reinforce and quilt worn workwear. Today it is very popular for customising or repairing textiles in an environmentally responsible way.
The name literally means “little stitches”, because the technique is based on a continuous running stitch. Traditionally, geometric patterns such as Seigaiha waves or Asanoha stars are embroidered with white cotton thread on indigo fabric.
Why do we offer specific Sashiko threads in our shops?
Using Sashiko thread rather than pearl cotton gives a more authentic and traditional result. Sashiko thread is matte, non-mercerised and lightly twisted, allowing it to flatten slightly and blend beautifully into the fabric. Unlike pearl cotton, it is specifically designed to withstand repeated washing and friction.
The visual effect: pearl cotton has a strong twist and a shiny finish that catches the light. Sashiko thread is matte, giving a softer and more rustic appearance.
The thread structure: Sashiko thread is not twisted as tightly as pearl cotton, which gives it a fuller, softer appearance once stitched. Its strands also tend to bind together slightly after washing, helping the stitches settle securely into the fabric.
Durability: Sashiko was originally a mending and reinforcement technique. Sashiko thread is therefore designed to be robust and durable enough for everyday use.
How the thread glides also makes a huge difference to embroidery comfort: a thread that constantly rubs or tangles quickly becomes frustrating, whereas a beautifully made Japanese thread slides smoothly through the fabric, stitch after stitch.
And finally, there is the purely traditional aspect: using genuine Japanese threads designed specifically for this technique over generations is also a way of respecting and continuing this craft tradition.
That is why we don’t do things by halves when it comes to thread: we wanted to offer a real choice, with several brands, different thicknesses and many colour worlds, so everyone can find THE thread that suits their project. Let’s take a look!
Which thread brands do we offer?
At C'est du Joly, we offer three thread brands, all from Japan and all producing threads specifically for Sashiko. We really want to provide the same type of materials you would find in Japan.
The selected brands are Olympus, Daruma and Cosmo.
Olympus threads
Founded in 1908 in Nagoya, Japan, Olympus originally focused on producing sewing thread and cotton thread. Over the decades, Olympus continually expanded its expertise.
For example:
- in 1919, the company built a finishing and dyeing factory;
- in 1955, it began selling embroidery kits and Kogin embroidery thread;
- in 1979, it began selling Sashiko embroidery threads and kits;
- in 1986, it began selling Hana-Fukin.
Olympus is a century-old company whose expertise is rooted in textile crafts. It is no coincidence that Olympus is now a leading Sashiko brand in Japan.
Which threads can you find at Olympus?
The solid colours are available in 20 m and 100 m skeins.
The 20 m skeins are perfect for using several colours in the same project, while the 100 m skeins are ideal if you want to embroider a whole piece in a single colour.
The pastel range is a new favourite of ours, especially for natural motifs such as sakura blossoms: lots of pinks and purples for beautifully soft gradients.
The mixed/gradient threads change colour as you embroider. They create lots of depth, especially on geometric patterns, and look wonderful for repairing denim, for example.
The metallic range includes a metallic filament for a festive touch of sparkle. We use it a lot on our Christmas Sashiko embroidery panels: perfect for tree stars or sparkling snow. ✨ (Yes, we know it’s summer, but a Christmas embroidery panel takes some advance planning!)
Daruma threads
Founded in 1901, Daruma set out to create quality thread at a time when many available products were poor quality and difficult for consumers to use.
This commitment continued as the brand developed. By 1951, Daruma was distributed throughout Japan and used in Japanese households for both sewing and embroidery.
In 1955, as crochet and knitting became increasingly popular in Japan, Daruma began producing yarn balls in wool, cotton and other fibres, and continued expanding in the following decades.
Today Daruma remains a major Japanese brand, and practically every Japanese household has used thread from this company.
Which Daruma threads do we offer?
Daruma comes on two types of cards:
- White cards: slightly thicker threads, ideal for traditional “classic” Sashiko embroidery, the style most often seen on social media.
- Black cards: finer threads, perfect for Hitomezashi embroidery, with its small, repetitive and delicate motifs where a finer thread creates a much more refined result.
A very Japanese practical detail: each card has a notch where you can secure the thread after use. No more thread unravelling in your embroidery pouch!
Cosmo
In 1933, Naozo Nomura founded a trading company in Kyoto specialising first in the import and sale of everyday goods and later in fabrics and embroidery lace. He also worked extensively with France 😊.
Around 1950, after the war, the company launched its own embroidery production and sales. Today, Cosmo continues to produce lace, embroidery thread and, of course, Sashiko thread.
Which Cosmo threads do we offer?
This is one of the brands we are proudest to offer because even in Japan it is not always easy to find. It is not stocked by every haberdashery, so if you embroider with Cosmo, you are already an expert 😉!
The colours beautifully complement our Olympus and Daruma ranges, including fluorescent shades that are difficult to find elsewhere.
There are also threads with tiny coloured dots, perfect if you don’t want to embroider entirely in white but would like a subtle touch of colour. I tested and approved them on our Christmas panels!
The very subtle gradients change shade gently, almost without you noticing.
The “sanded” threads combine slightly different shades to create a refined heathered effect.
Another practical difference: Cosmo Sashiko threads are sold on small spools, unlike Olympus skeins.
Honestly, between Olympus, Daruma and Cosmo, I think we have one of the finest Sashiko thread selections in Belgium, if not in Europe.
Do I have a recommendation for choosing your thread?
Am I really objective? I love all three brands, and their ranges keep growing and complementing one another beautifully for all my projects. But I’ll still give you my opinion 😊.
Beginners will generally find Cosmo spools and Daruma cards easier to handle.
If you want a finer, more delicate result, the dark Daruma cards are a great choice. If you prefer the more traditional matte, rounded appearance, Olympus thread will make you very happy.
And if, like me, you love unusual and original colours, you will have great fun with Cosmo.
In any case, I’m sure you’ll find exactly what you need in our selection!
Would you like to try Sashiko (or Kogin) but don’t quite dare to start alone? Why not join one of our workshops? See the programme here.
And for those who already know how to embroider or want to get started independently, you can find all the materials you need for Sashiko here and for Kogin here.
To your needles!
