The Loris Bomber will quickly become a wardrobe essential with the many customization options it offers.
First, you can decide to line it or simply keep the facing. If you make raglan pockets, I advise you to line it for a nicer interior finish. It is possible to line it entirely or only the torso.
The key element of this model is its pretty delicately pleated sleeves. By playing with the direction of the pleats, you can play with volumes. The sleeves can simply end with a hem or with a sleeve cuff by making a flat pleat at the bottom of the sleeve.
For the shape and length of the bomber, the cut can be long and straight (jacket shape) or tapered by making flat pleats on the front and back of the model and sewing a waistband (bomber shape) to enhance the whole. It is also possible to make a cropped version by shortening the torso by 10 cm.
For the jacket closure, you have two options: installing a separating zipper or creating a button placket.
Finally, if you wish, you can sew a straight or bomber collar. The latter is to be sewn with ribbing. It is also possible to sew the sleeve cuffs and waistband in ribbing to maintain unity.
By sewing Loris, you will learn to:
Sew flat pleats
Sew a collar
Sew a button placket
Sew a separating zipper
Sew a facing
Sew a lining
For this jacket, mainly take your chest measurement into account. If your hip measurement is more than 2 sizes larger than your chest measurement, it is better to grade between the two sizes from the chest to the hips.
If you are between two sizes, choose the larger size.
The Loris Bomber is a fairly close-fitting model with little ease. By sewing your usual size (according to the size chart), you will be able to wear a thin layer underneath (a t-shirt or tank top). If you want to be able to wear something thicker underneath, I recommend sewing one size up. This is not necessarily necessary if you sew your garment in a stretch fabric. If you want to sew a mid-season jacket and have enough ease, I recommend sewing one (knit) to two (woven) sizes up.
If your lining fabric is not fluid, I advise you not to line the sleeves, as you will lose ease of movement.
Supplies
All versions:
180 cm of fabric (140 cm wide)
With pocket, add:
20 cm of lining fabric (140 cm wide)
With lining:
150 cm of lining fabric (140 cm wide)
In addition to the fabric, you will need:
70 cm of thin fusible interfacing
For the buttoned version:
5 metal snap buttons
For the zipped version:
a separating zipper of 50 cm
(40 cm for the crop version)
