Pattern printed of the Lucine shirt by Laeti and Léa from size 32 to 52 (fr)

Lucine was developed with Clémentine @zagrumette. It is a long-sleeved shirt with an androgynous and timeless style, characterized by a straight cut without darts. In its most classic version, it will become a wardrobe essential. The optimal ease and the box pleat in the back have been designed to combine comfort and elegance.

To personalize your shirt and give it a touch of femininity and originality, several options are available to you:

• 3 collar types : classic, XL, Victorian, or a band collar by sewing only the collar stand.
• 3 cuff styles with tear-proof slit: classic rounded with or without ruffle (5 cm), to tie, or long (10 cm).
• Side finishing : classic or buttoned.
• Center front button placket : simple or hidden.
• 2, 1 or no patch pocket in front.
• A small tab at the back.

These details allow you to create a shirt that perfectly fits your desires and style.

The techniques you will use and learn to do with this model:

• The English seam (for nice finishes when closing the shoulders and sleeves).
• The setting of gathers.
• The formation of box pleats.
• The assembly of a stand collar.
• The creation of a tear-proof slit  and setting a shirt cuff
• The finishing of the collar and shirt cuffs can be done by machine or by hand.
  

Sewing level

Intermediate. The technical points are the assembly of the collar and cuffs, the button placket and the tear-proof slit at the bottom of the sleeve. You will learn to sew the English seam and to assemble the lined back with the sleeve technique. I accompany you with detailed assembly explanations and diagrams, as well as an assembly help video. 

Size guide

This pattern is designed for a height of 1.65 m.

The most important measurements for this model are height and chest circumference.

This is a loose model, if you are between 2 sizes, take the smaller size

If you are taller or shorter than the stated height, and the finished garment measurements do not fit you, you can make adjustments: you can shorten or lengthen the sleeve and/or the bodice as explained in the guide.

Contents

• Detailed assembly guide (with diagrams)
  
• Pattern sheet 

Required materials

Fabric

Choose a lightweight to medium weight woven fabric (80 to 160g/m2) depending on the season and desired effect: lightweight cotton, cotton poplin+, cotton batiste, cotton voile, Liberty, embroidered cotton, crepe, tencel, viscose, linen, very fine denim, chambray, lightweight velvet…

Warning! Choosing a very fluid and/or slippery fabric (some viscose) or one that deforms easily (e.g. double gauze) can make sewing more delicate. If you are a beginner, I recommend starting with cotton.

Warning! The values are given as a guide and may vary depending on the options you have chosen and your ability to arrange the pieces when cutting the fabric.

You will also need more fabric if you have to match patterns and direction (allow 30% more fabric in these cases)

Small haberdashery

• Matching thread and needles suitable for your fabric.
• Sew-on buttons 10 to 12 mm:

7 to 10 buttons for the center front.

+      2 buttons if simple or long cuffs.

+      1 button if back placket.

+    8 to 10 sew-on buttons (or snap fasteners) if side button placket.

• Matching bias tape for your fabric for the tear-proof slit. You can make it yourself for an even neater finish: simply cut a 3 cm wide and 50 cm long strip on the bias of the fabric (or 2 strips of 3 x 25 cm).
• Fusible interfacing suitable for your fabric* for the collar, cuffs, and button plackets.

* Note : Type and thickness to choose according to your fabric. A fabric interfaced with a woven fusible will keep its “natural” feel and drape but with more body. A fabric interfaced with a non-woven fusible will have a stiffer appearance.