This week, Marie shares her sewing experience with the super handy Hali jumpsuit by Named Clothing!
"I've always loved the look that jumpsuits give. I find them very flattering as they elongate the silhouette. But I've always thought – and the same goes for bodysuits* – 'but how on earth do you go to the bathroom!?' Don't you? So I had concluded that jumpsuits were like chicory: not for me. (Read until the end if you want to find out the final word on the matter).
Well, that narrow-minded view held until the patterns from Named Clothing, featuring the Hali jumpsuit, arrived in the large pattern library at C'est du Joly.
Before focusing on Hali, I'd like to write a few words about this pattern brand, which, from Belgium, might be a little less familiar to us. Named Clothing is a Finnish brand created in 2013 by two sisters, Saara and Laura. Looking into them further, I realized that they also embrace 3 key values dear to us at C'est du Joly: well-cut handmade clothes that help you feel good or better in your body, being on a continuous learning journey, and embracing sustainable fashion. The aesthetic is clean, clear, and effective. Often featuring a signature detail that defines the look, as is so common in Scandinavian visual design.
*Regarding bodysuits, make sure to stay subscribed to the newsletter for this piece coming soon to our wardrobes!
Anyway, let's move on to the hot topic of the jumpsuit!
The model
The Hali pattern offers two variations: a long wrap dress and the jumpsuit I sewed.
The wrap jumpsuit features a playful combination between the front and the back: From the back, a jumpsuit; from the front, a lovely dress. I can tell you it makes quite an impression at evening gatherings!
The skirt piece is lovely and full, perfectly accentuating the 'dress' look. And those who know me are well aware that long dresses and I have a strong love story. Hali clearly had plenty of charm to win me over.
The garment features design elements that ensure a flattering fit: a back yoke and bust darts. You can also adjust how fitted it is using the wrap ties. The sleeves are wide and short, and the garment features in-seam pockets.
On the dress version, the skirt has a ruffle that brings life to this part of the dress.
Both versions feature in-seam pockets which are oh-so practical!
Practical information for sewing the pattern
Hali is a PDF pattern available in the shop and graded across a truly wide size range: going from size 32 to 56.
It is cut in woven fabrics, light to medium weight. Depending on the desired effect, you can opt for a low-drape fabric or a slightly drapey fabric. Fabrics for shirts or dresses in cotton, linen, Tencel, and Viscose are recommended. But in my opinion, if you "picture" the jumpsuit in a Japanese cotton with a bit of structure, don't hesitate either. The garment will be more structured and the effect just as wow!
In the sewist's basket
• Fabric: Depending on the chosen size and fabric width, you will need between 2.40 m and 3.50 m in 140 cm width and between 3.70 m and 4.50 m in 110 cm width.
• Wrap ties: they can be made using 3.5 cm wide ribbons. Make sure to choose a product that won't lose its shape. Grosgrain ribbons are preferred. If you choose to make them from your main fabric, be careful to add them to your cutting layout: the ties are not included in the pattern pieces as the requirements list them as notion supplies.
• Suitable interfacing for your fabric: It will prevent stretching on certain edges of the garment: pocket openings and the entire neckline: front slanting edges and back neck.
• And of course, matching sewing thread.
My supplies
I made my jumpsuit in a super comfortable linen Viscose. It's the "Magnolia forever" in fuchsia and teal. It is sold out today, but the print is still available in the anise and dark mauve colorway.
For interfacing, I preferred using seam tape / stay tape. With its reinforced threads, it is even more effective at preventing stretching along edges that need support.
For the ties, I made them in my main fabric (you know, those Sundays when you realize you're missing a notion, but ABSOLUTELY want to wear the outfit for an evening out...). My only advice: cut them on the straight grain so they withstand repeated tying and untying.
The thread used is Gütermann all-purpose polyester thread, in white 800.
My version
I cut the top in size 36 and the bottom in size 40. According to the size and finished garment measurement charts, I should have gone for a 38. But I didn't want to risk the neckline gaping. I could afford this tweak because the sleeves are loose, so my arm movements wouldn't be restricted.
Speaking of looseness, much to Eugénie's despair, I also widened the sleeves from the armpit and (a little) the leg width. I think for next summer, I'll make it again while widening the leg even more, but shh! Don't tell Eugénie 😂
Indicated difficulty level and technical points
Sewing-wise, Hali doesn't present any specifically complex techniques. Beginners who have sewn 2 or 3 garments will manage without a problem. The real challenge lies in visualizing its construction, and it's super fun!
Regarding the back yoke, as it is narrow, the pattern designers didn't design the assembly of this part using the burrito method. The inner back yoke is folded under by 1 cm and topstitched. On my end, I opted for the classic burrito method because my fabric allowed it. It was tight, but it worked!
And then, it's a matter of keeping things clear between a full leg, a back sewn to the skirt, and a front sewn to the leg… Still following me?... Joking aside, don't worry, it's very original and the illustrations in the instructions help keep you on track.
My sewing experience
I found the construction really enjoyable to follow. The explanations, although in English, are easy to follow with the very clear diagrams. Those are more than enough. The model is easy to make while offering a truly elegant result.
And now, the final word on the matter: when visiting the restroom, it works great! The wrap design allows you to set the fabric aside without having to take off the top ;)
Find all the lovely Named Clothing patterns here.
If you feel like sewing it with us, why not join an open project workshop? We still have a few spots left 😉. Find all available dates here.
So? Convinced? Get your needles ready!
