This week, Marie is sharing her sewing experience with the fantastic Hali jumpsuit by Named Clothing!
“I have always loved the look of jumpsuits. I find them very flattering because they lengthen the silhouette. But I always used to think — and the same goes for bodysuits* — ‘but how do you go to the toilet?!’ Don’t you? So I had concluded that jumpsuits were like Belgian endives: just not for me. (Read to the end if you want to know how the story turns out).
Well, that rather narrow-minded opinion lasted until the patterns from Named Clothing — including the Hali jumpsuit — arrived in C'est du Joly's huge pattern library.
Before focusing on Hali, I’d like to say a few words about the pattern brand, which may be a little less familiar to us here in Belgium. Named Clothing is a Finnish brand created in 2013 by two sisters, Saara and Laura. While looking into their story, I realised that they too fit with three values that matter greatly to us at C'est du Joly: well-cut handmade clothes that help you feel good or better in your body, continuous learning, and a commitment to sustainable fashion. Their aesthetic is understated, clear and effective, often with one distinctive detail that defines the look, as is so often the case in Scandinavian visual design.
*As for bodysuits, make sure you stay subscribed to the newsletter for this garment that is making its way into our wardrobes!
Right, let’s move on to the hot topic: the jumpsuit!
The pattern
The Hali pattern offers two versions: a long wrap dress and the jumpsuit I made.
The wrap jumpsuit has a playful combination of front and back: from behind, it looks like a jumpsuit; from the front, like a beautiful dress. I can tell you, it makes quite an impression at parties!
The skirt piece is very full, which really enhances the “dress” effect. And anyone who knows me knows that long dresses and I have a serious love affair. Hali therefore had plenty going for it from the start.
The garment includes design details that make it flattering: a back yoke and bust darts. You can also adjust how close it sits to the body using the wrap ties. The sleeves are wide and short, and the garment has useful in-seam pockets.
On the dress version, the skirt also has a flounce that adds movement.
Both versions have those wonderfully practical in-seam pockets!
Practical information for sewing the pattern
Hali is a PDF pattern available in the shop and is graded over a really broad size range, from size 32 to 56.
It is designed for woven fabrics, from lightweight to medium-heavy. Depending on the result you want, you can choose a fabric with little drape or a slightly drapey fabric. Shirting or dress fabrics such as cotton, linen, Tencel and viscose are recommended. But in my opinion, if you can “see” the jumpsuit in a Japanese cotton with a little body, go for it! The garment will be more structured and the result will be just as wow.
In the sewing basket
• The fabric: depending on the size and width of your fabric, you will need between 2.40 m and 3.50 m for a 140 cm width, or between 3.70 m and 4.50 m for a 110 cm width.
• The wrap ties: these can be made from 3.5 cm-wide ribbon. Make sure you use something that will not stretch out of shape; grosgrain ribbon is a good choice. If you make the ties from your main fabric, remember to add them to your cutting plan: they are not included because the notions list assumes ribbon.
• Fusible interfacing suitable for your fabric. It prevents certain edges from stretching out of shape: the pocket openings and the entire neckline, including the diagonal front edges and the back neck.
• And of course, matching sewing thread.
My supplies
I made my jumpsuit in a linen-viscose blend that is incredibly comfortable to wear. It is the “Magnolia forever” in fuchsia and petrol. That colourway is sold out now, but the print is still available in anise green and dark mauve.
For interfacing, I preferred to use straight-grain stay tape. With its reinforcement threads, it is even more effective at preventing supported edges from stretching.
For the ties, I made them from my fabric (you know that Sunday moment when you realise you are missing a notion, but you ABSOLUTELY want to wear the garment that evening...). My only advice: cut them on the straight grain so that they withstand repeated tying and untying.
The thread I used is Gutermann all-purpose polyester thread, in white 800.
My version
I cut the top in size 36 and the bottom in size 40. According to the size and finished-garment charts, I should have chosen a 38. But I did not want to risk the neckline gaping. I could get away with it because the sleeves are roomy, so my arm movement would not be restricted.
Speaking of roominess, much to Eugénie’s despair, I also widened the sleeves from the underarm and added a little extra width to the legs. I think I’ll make it again next summer with even wider legs — but shhh! Don’t tell Eugénie 😂
Stated difficulty level and technical points
From a sewing point of view, Hali does not involve any particularly difficult sewing techniques. Beginners who have already made two or three garments should manage it without trouble. The real challenge is visualising how the construction works — and that is great fun!
As for the back yoke, because it is narrow, the designers did not use the burrito method for this part. The inner back yoke is turned under by one centimetre and topstitched in place. I chose the classic burrito method because my fabric allowed it. It was tight, but it worked!
Then you need to keep track of a complete leg, a back attached to the skirt, and a front attached to the leg… Still with me? Joking aside, don’t be afraid: the construction is very original, and the illustrations in the instructions make it easy to stay on track.
My sewing experience
I found the construction really enjoyable to follow. Although the instructions are in English, the diagrams are very clear and easy to understand — they are almost enough on their own. The model is easy to make while still giving a genuinely elegant result.
And now for the final answer to the big question: going to the toilet works perfectly well! The wrap lets you move the fabric aside without having to take the top off ;)
Find all the lovely Named Clothing patterns here.
If you would like to sew it with us, why not join one of our open-project workshops? We still have a few places left 😉. See all available sessions here.
So, convinced? To your needles!
