When Isabelle, the creator of Mimoï, released her new collection, I immediately fell for Woods (and Roslyn but well, you have to start somewhere 😂)

Woods is a shirt, overshirt, and jacket model! All in one pattern because once again, Isabelle gave us really effective patterning and instructions! I love it ❤️! 

I really had in mind to make myself a denim shirt for this autumn and Woods came just in time! 

So I’m taking you on a discovery of this model!

The model

The Woods sewing pattern offers you many versions with neat finishes! Shirt, overshirt, or small jacket. Each version is crafted and offers finishes suited to the chosen fabric!

Woods allows the use of lighter fabrics for shirt versions, but also flannel fabrics for overshirts and even wool for its jacket version!

I feel the pilou overshirt version will soon follow under my presser foot 😂

The Woods pattern fits the body without constraint or excess. At the yoke, an oblique cut adds dynamism to the model while the pockets emphasize this effect. The back line is also highlighted by a cut that extends onto the sleeves and ends with a slit. The cuffs are beveled for a modern and original touch.

A rounded pleat adds ease to the back yoke while the hem is shaped like a shirt tail to soften the overall look of the model.

Information for sewing this model

Woods is available in PDF version only on our webshop but also in store. 

Woods grade from size 32 to 50! 

The pattern offers a nice ease. To choose your size, I obviously advise you to refer to the size chart but also to the finished garment measurement chart. 

If you choose the thick fabric jacket option, I recommend slightly sizing up the garment so you can wear thick sweaters underneath. If you only wear thin sweaters / undershirts, no need to size up. 

Seam allowances are included in the pattern and are 1cm.

You can therefore cut directly from the PDF paper sheets. 

In the seamstress's basket

As I mentioned earlier, to sew Woods you’ll have plenty of fabric choices: chambray, cotton poplin, medium or thick gabardine, wool fabric, corduroy, flannel, jacquard ...

Regarding Yardage:
For a fabric width of 140cm:
For the shirt and overshirt version:    Size 32 – 38: 165 cm      ///     Size 40 – 44: 200 cm      ///    Size 46-50: 220 cm For the jacket version: Size 32 – 38:     175 cm      ///     Size 40 – 44: 200 cm      ///     Size 46-50: 235 cm 
For the jacket version, you will also need lining for the pocket and yokes; count for the different sizes: Size 32 – 38: 30 cm     ///     Size 40 – 44: 40 cm     ///     Size 46-50: 45 cm  

Other supplies are:
– Fusible interfacing (optional, depending on your fabric weight you may skip it)  Shirt 40cm  //  Jacket 50cm
 – Buttons 12mm Collar with collar stand version x 11 /// Simple collar version x10
 – Good quality thread and special topstitching thread: super strong, denim... (optional)
 – Soft bias tape, depending on the hem finish chosen: Size 32 – 38: 140cm   ///   Size 40 – 44: 155cm   ///   Size 46-50: 175cm

Difficulty level and technical points

We’re working on a shirt, so at an intermediate to advanced level. I don’t recommend starting with a shirt as your first garment, especially since Woods includes quite a few technical elements requiring care and precision. 

The technical points are:

- sewing thicker fabrics for the overshirts and jackets options
- topstitching 
- assembling the yokes
- making pockets according to the chosen option
- the button placket with creating buttonholes and sewing on buttons
- attaching the collar (and the collar stand depending on the version) 
- creating a sleeve slit 
- attaching the cuff
- the facing or the finishing of the bottom of the garment with bias tape.

Faced with such a program, I’m delighted but it might discourage a more beginner sewer... just a heads-up! 

My sewing experience

I decided to start by sewing a Woods in the denim shirt version. I have to say the version worn by Isabelle in the photos really tempted me.

Plus, I had set aside a piece of jeans from the shop, a scrap from a 3m coupon... which was just perfect for my plan! I chose a very light sky blue thread for the contrast stitching and a slightly lighter one for the assembly seams. 

I also selected a bias tape from my stash for the garment hem finish and H200 fusible interfacing, perfect for the fabric I had chosen. I still had to dig through my button stash to find some pretty dark blue buttons that matched my fabric perfectly. 

I chose to make it in size 36, which is "my size" at Mimoï. 

So I assembled the PDF pattern pages. The explanatory guide is really detailed to know which pieces to cut for the version and finishes you selected. You shouldn’t make any mistakes. 

I spent about an hour fusing and cutting my pieces. 

It took me about 45 minutes to cut my pattern pieces and the remaining 15 minutes to fuse the cuffs, collar, collar stand, and button placket. 

Next comes the favorite part: sewing! 

I spent about 3 hours on Wednesday assembling the body and attaching the collar. I chose to do triple stitch topstitching for a nice visual effect; I wanted the topstitching to be very visible. 

The next day, I tackled the sleeves with the slits and cuffs, as well as the buttonholes, chest pockets, and finishing, for a total of 4.5 hours. 

In the end, I think I was efficient in sewing this shirt! I really loved sewing it.  

I find that Isabelle always has a knack for thinking about details and the seamstress who will use her patterns. For example, she optimized the order of the booklet steps to avoid changing thread too often during contrast topstitching. It’s really well thought out!

Also, depending on the thickness of the chosen fabric, the booklet guides you to create facings or finish with bias tape, and helps you choose the best finishing options! The booklet also offers 2 options for side seams: a classic seam or a flat-felled seam, it’s up to you to choose based on your fabric and preferences!

I’m really delighted with Isabelle’s work and I know I’m going to make another Woods jacket with large front pockets. I’m going to dig through my thick fabric scraps to see if I can have some fun making a slightly playful one... To be continued...

So, what do you think of this Woods shirt?

Ready to start making a shirt? Grab your needles!