You know I like to offer fabrics in the shop that I would enjoy sewing myself: it is time for me to introduce tencel... You may be wondering what tencel is. This fabric is not very well known, so let's discover this wonderful material together!
What is tencel?
Tencel™ fibre is a plant-based fibre obtained from the cellulose of eucalyptus trees, bamboo and/or deciduous trees. It is therefore an artificial synthetic fibre produced using the natural proteins of plants.
The cellulose, in other words the pulp of these trees, is crushed and then dissolved using a natural, non-toxic and biodegradable solvent. Tencel production is therefore, like linen fabric production, environmentally friendly.
Tencel resembles viscose in its fluid, silky feel; you will also find it referred to as plant silk.
A little history
I told you about the two Austrians who created viscose at the end of the 19th century in my article about viscose, and it was the same people, or at least the same company (called Lenzing), who created tencel!
Historically, this Austrian company specialised in producing pulp and paper. During various experiments, it succeeded in creating cellulose fibre that could be spun to make fabric: viscose was born.
In the 1960s, keen to improve its environmental performance, the company decided to improve its industrial process to limit the use of chemicals and improve their recycling. After several years of research, Lenzing developed a new environmentally friendly fibre: tencel.
Its manufacturing process is both sustainable and zero waste. The company even received a European Award from the European Union for its achievement. Today, they are the leading suppliers of Tencel fabric to the clothing and furnishing sectors.
How is it made?
Tencel production uses 3 ingredients:
- wood
- water
- a natural solvent
which are used in a closed loop, as everything is recycled, purified and reused throughout the process. 99.77% of the solvent used is recovered, an impressive environmental achievement!
What are the advantages and disadvantages of tencel?
Besides its environmental qualities, tencel has many other qualities that are useful when sewing it and, above all, when wearing it as clothing.
Advantages
Tencel is:
- strong,
- breathable,
- absorbent,
- hypoallergenic,
- regulates perspiration,
- odour-resistant (thanks to its absorbency, bacteria do not have time to grow and release odours as they would with polyester),
- smooth and silky thanks to its smooth, uniform and elastic textile fibres, which make it resistant to pilling and tearing,
- Tencel™ fabric has a longer lifespan than synthetic materials and other chemically produced fibres,
- fully biodegradable. It decomposes in just 6 weeks in aerated compost.
Disadvantage
- its price, which is a little higher than viscose. However, given its advantages, the price difference is not significant.
How do you sew it?
Tencel has an appearance similar to silk, with beautiful fluidity and a heavy drape. The advice for sewing tencel is quite similar to that for sewing viscose.
For cutting, secure your fabric with fine pins and use sharp scissors or a sharp rotary cutter.
For sewing, pin your work within the seam allowances using fine pins, and preferably choose a Microtex machine needle or a small needle size (60/70).
Remember to wash your fabric once before cutting it, as tencel is a natural fibre and some shrinkage may occur (this is completely normal).
Finally, when ironing (to press seams open, for example), use a low to moderate temperature.
What can you sew with tencel?
With its beautiful fluidity, tencel is perfect for much the same sewing projects as viscose. Blouses, dresses and skirts naturally come to mind, but one use I find particularly flattering is making flowing trousers and jumpsuits (which are also fashionable this year). I think this is one of the best uses for tencel, as it lets you make beautiful trousers like those you find in luxury shops at a lower price.
I can particularly picture palazzo trousers in this lovely fabric: with a side zip, you are ready for work or an evening at a restaurant. I think it looks instantly elegant.
How do you care for a garment made from tencel?
Once your garment is sewn, you will need to look after it, and once again tencel has plenty to offer in this respect!
Tencel washes well at 30°C and dries very quickly. Do not use a tumble dryer. It is also virtually crease-free. If you hang it up properly to dry (on a hanger, for example), you will not even need to iron it.
Once dry, a tencel garment should be stored somewhere cool and airy. Ideally, leave it on a hanger in a "healthy" wardrobe (without damp).
I hope this article has taught you something new and, who knows, perhaps introduced you to this beautiful material!
You will find our first beautiful-quality tencel fabrics in the shop. They are made by the Danish brand Meetmilk, and once again I am going to find it very hard not to set aside a remnant for myself...
Let me know in the comments what you think of this article and/or tencel; it will help me respond even better to your wishes and needs.
