What is the jersey bias?

After talking to you about ribbing, the different types of jersey and even needles, it was time to talk to you about another haberdashery supply used for sewing jersey: jersey bias!

I really like to use it especially to make necklines of bodysuits and jersey dresses... come on, I'll show you all that...

What is jersey bias?

Jersey bias, as its name suggests, is:

  • jersey because it will be used in addition to knit fabrics
  • bias because it has been cut on the bias of a jersey fabric to have excellent elasticity to easily fit curves. 

It comes in the form of a pre-folded jersey fabric strip. In fact, it is possible (with a bit of skill and patience) to make your own jersey bias. 

What is it used for?

Jersey bias, just like classic bias (used for woven fabrics), is used to create beautiful finishes. It is mainly used to achieve flawless finishes on raw edges. On a top, it is used around the neckline, armholes/cuffs, and it can also replace a hem. On a bottom, it can be used as a waistband, around the thighs. 

A second purpose of using bias is that it can be contrasted. This allows you to add style to a garment or to highlight. For example, to finish the overlap of a wrap dress to emphasize the bust or to finish the armholes of a child's t-shirt with vibrant colors. There are many colors available and it is even possible to find fluorescent ones! 

Lizaig Bodysuit - Pattern Marie Poisson 

Lucette Dress - Coudre le stretch by Marie Poisson

Can we do without jersey bias tape? 

When sewing knit fabrics, for some raw edges you will need to apply bias tape (either on top or hidden). For some finishes, you can of course make a hem: cuffs, bottom of a t-shirt... but for a neckline, bias tape remains a must whether you make it yourself or buy it ready-made.

Some might be tempted to use woven bias tape to replace jersey bias tape. I do not recommend this because it will not have the required elasticity to adapt to the movements of the fabric and your body. The fabric will pull and it will not look good at all. 

Is sewing jersey bias tape easy?

Sewing jersey bias tape requires precision and patience if you want it to be perfect! Indeed, we will be working with and assembling two stretch materials together, so you must ensure they do not shift during sewing (otherwise your seams will be crooked). Pinning is therefore essential, and if your fabric is very fluid or you are a beginner, I recommend basting everything.

For the rest of the sewing, the specifications remain the same as for knit fabrics. Of course, a jersey needle will be used for sewing the jersey bias tape. 

If you want to try it, you will find in the shop 3m long jersey bias tapes in colors that will match our jerseys

I hope this article has helped you learn a little more about jersey bias tape.

Would you be interested in a tutorial to sew it?

3 thoughts on “What is the jersey bias?

t4s-avatar
Pahi

Bonjour,
Cet article tombe à point ! Merci beaucoup !
J’aimerais beaucoup que vous publiiez un tuto pour coudre un biais jersey pour encolure ; j’en ai un à faire depuis un moment, mais ne sachant pas trop m’y prendre, je ne m’y suis pas encore risquée.
Ce sera avec plaisir que je suivrai votre tuto.
Par ailleurs, j’aimerais aussi savoir comment adapter un patron au niveau des manches. Je les trouve trop courtes, je les aime jusqu’au niveau du coude pour cacher des bras trop maigres…
Un grand merci par avance et beau lundi à vous ;-)

May 29, 2021 at 10:42am
t4s-avatar
Claire De souza

Un Tito , oui oui c’est sûr !

May 23, 2021 at 16:10pm
t4s-avatar
Scutenaire

Bonjour, merci pour cet article. Oui j’aimerais bien un tuto pour coudre le biais jersey sur une encolure ou un top sans manche svp, merci 😀

May 23, 2021 at 16:10pm

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