What is the jersey bias?

After talking to you about ribbing, the different types of jersey, and even needles, it was time to talk to you about another haberdashery supply used for sewing jersey: jersey bias tape!

I really like to use it especially for finishing the necklines of bodysuits and jersey dresses... come on, I'll show you all about it...

What is jersey bias tape?

Jersey bias tape, as its name suggests, is:

  • in jersey because it will be used alongside knit fabrics
  • cut on the bias because it is cut on the bias of a jersey fabric to have excellent elasticity to easily fit curves. 

It comes in the form of a pre-folded jersey fabric strip. In fact, it is possible (with some skill and patience) to make your own jersey bias tape. 

What is it used for?

Jersey bias tape, just like classic bias tape (used for woven fabrics), is used to create beautiful finishes. It is mainly used to achieve flawless edges that remain raw. On a top, it is used around the neckline, armholes/cuffs, and it can also replace a hem. On bottoms, it can be used as a waistband or around the thighs. 

A second purpose of using bias tape is that it can be contrasted. This allows you to add style to a garment or highlight certain areas. For example, to finish the overlap of a wrap dress to emphasize the bust or to finish the armholes of a child's t-shirt with bright colors. There are many colors available, and you can even find fluorescent ones! 

Lizaig Bodysuit - Pattern Marie Poisson

Lucette Dress - book Sewing Stretch by Marie Poisson

Can we do without jersey bias tape? 

When sewing knit fabrics, some raw edges will require bias tape application (either on top or hidden). For some finishes, you can of course make a hem: cuffs, bottom of a t-shirt... but for a neckline, bias tape remains a must, whether you make it yourself or buy it ready-made.

Some might be tempted to use woven bias tape instead of jersey bias tape. I don’t recommend it because woven bias tape won’t have the elasticity needed to adapt to the movements of the fabric and your body. The fabric will pull and it won’t look good at all. 

Is sewing jersey bias tape easy?

Sewing jersey bias tape requires precision and patience if you want it to be perfect! Indeed, we will be working with and joining two stretch materials together, so you need to make sure they don’t shift during sewing (or your seams will be crooked). Pinning is therefore essential, and if your fabric is very fluid or you are a beginner, I recommend basting everything.

For the rest of the sewing, the specifications remain the same as for knit fabrics. Of course, a jersey needle will be used to sew the jersey bias tape. 

If you want to give it a try, you will find in the shop 3m long jersey bias tapes in colors that will match our jerseys

I hope this article has helped you learn a bit more about jersey bias tape.

Would you like a tutorial on how to sew it?

3 thoughts on “What is the jersey bias?

t4s-avatar
Pahi

Bonjour,
Cet article tombe à point ! Merci beaucoup !
J’aimerais beaucoup que vous publiiez un tuto pour coudre un biais jersey pour encolure ; j’en ai un à faire depuis un moment, mais ne sachant pas trop m’y prendre, je ne m’y suis pas encore risquée.
Ce sera avec plaisir que je suivrai votre tuto.
Par ailleurs, j’aimerais aussi savoir comment adapter un patron au niveau des manches. Je les trouve trop courtes, je les aime jusqu’au niveau du coude pour cacher des bras trop maigres…
Un grand merci par avance et beau lundi à vous ;-)

May 29, 2021 at 10:42am
t4s-avatar
Claire De souza

Un Tito , oui oui c’est sûr !

May 23, 2021 at 16:10pm
t4s-avatar
Scutenaire

Bonjour, merci pour cet article. Oui j’aimerais bien un tuto pour coudre le biais jersey sur une encolure ou un top sans manche svp, merci 😀

May 23, 2021 at 16:10pm

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