Which fabrics should you sew in summer? Our top picks

When temperatures rise, and even more so during a heatwave, choosing the right fabric makes all the difference!

You may have found the perfect pattern, but if the fabric is not breathable or sticks to the skin, the garment may end up at the back of the wardrobe… and that would be such a shame after all those hours of sewing! 

At the shop and in the studio, we are truly committed to offering you beautiful fabrics, with a preference for natural fibres such as cotton and linen.

I also like certain high-quality man-made fabrics, such as viscose, Lyocell and Tencel, which create beautifully fluid drapes. 

In this article, I’m introducing the fabrics I wear throughout the summer and recommend most often in the shop. No lengthy theory course today: the main idea is to help you choose the right fabric for your next summer blouse, dress, skirt or jumpsuit. Let’s get started! 

Cotton in all its forms 

Let’s start with cotton, but be careful: saying that a fabric is “cotton” does not yet tell us exactly what it looks or feels like. The same fibre can be woven in many different ways and produce very different fabrics. Poplin, voile, cotton satin, cotton lawn, double gauze and seersucker each have their own feel, drape and uses. 

Cotton poplin 

A safe bet! Cotton poplin is truly a fabric I wear a lot in summer. It is lightweight, breathable, pleasant against the skin and stable enough to be easy to cut and sew. It is one of the fabrics I recommend most to beginner sewists. It is perfect for making tops, shirts, blouses, dresses or skirts.

And when it comes to patterns, you can really indulge yourself: solids, mini gingham, stripes, flowers, abstract, tropical or children's patterns… there’s something for every taste. You know how much I love Japanese fabrics: a large part of our selection is made up of cotton poplins. So if your pattern recommends poplin, you can absolutely opt for a beautiful Japanese cotton.

A delicate little pattern, a golden trim, or a large romantic flower can immediately make a very simple cut feel truly original. I reserve fairly lightweight poplin, however, for garments such as tops, blouses, shirts, dresses, or skirts.

For trousers or shorts intended to be worn frequently, I would instead choose a sturdier cotton, twill, or gabardine.

Cotton voile 

For maximum lightness, cotton voile is finer and lighter than poplin. When it is very hot, it is a joy to wear: you really feel as though you have a veil against your skin.

The main point to watch out for is, of course, its transparency! If this worries you, choose poplin instead or plan for a very lightweight lining. For a top, the transparency is often subtle: suitable underwear in a shade close to your skin tone can already make all the difference. 

Cotton satin

Chic, but easy to sew I am often asked at the shop: “Eugénie, do you have any satin?” People generally have very shiny, very slippery polyester satin in mind, which frays in every direction. Honestly, sewing with it can quickly become quite a challenge!

I much prefer cotton satin. It has that lovely satin sheen that immediately gives it an elegant look, while retaining the stability and comfort of cotton. It does not turn you into a disco ball: the shine is subtle, chic, and truly beautiful. It can be used to make a dress, a beautiful blouse, a skirt, or even a formal outfit.

Two students have already sewn their wedding dresses at the workshop in cotton satin. With a few well-placed embroideries, the result can be absolutely incredible without having to invest in very expensive silk. If this fabric intrigues you, you can also read my article about cotton satin and sewing with it.

Cotton lawn 

Between poplin and satin, cotton lawn is a little marvel that is sometimes less familiar. It is fine, soft, lightweight, and more fluid than classic poplin, while still being very pleasant to work with. I would place it somewhere between poplin and cotton sateen: it has beautiful drape, a soft surface and a slightly silky appearance. It is perfect for tops, blouses, dresses, skirts, occasion wear or pretty children's dresses.

Can you imagine a sundress in a small floral cotton lawn? I can!

An off-season tip: I also like to use it to line my coats. It helps retain a natural fabric and is smooth enough around the sleeves.

Broderie anglaise and embroidered cottons  

Romantic and contemporary, no, broderie anglaise is not old-fashioned and is certainly not reserved for demure collars or a « Little House on the Prairie » style! Today, it can be found in bright colors: yellow, mauve, orange, green and even with very contemporary designs! I particularly like embroidered fabrics with a decorative border. You can place it at the bottom of a sleeve, skirt or dress and achieve a spectacular finish without having to add many details to the pattern. It is a perfect fabric for a blouse, top or summer dress. I have several myself in my wardrobe, and they always earn me plenty of compliments.

Double gauze 

The perfect ally for hot weather Double gauze is not just a fabric for babies! It consists of two layers of very fine gauze joined together, giving it its slightly puckered appearance and incredible comfort. For dresses, blouses, nightwear or holiday outfits, it is truly one of my favorite fabrics.

When it is 35 or 40°C, you almost feel as though you are wearing nothing: air circulates and the garment stays light against the skin.

It shifts a little more than poplin, but it remains perfectly accessible after a few first projects. If you feel like giving it a try, also find all my tips and tricks for sewing double gauze.

Seersucker

Lightweight, textured and requiring no ironing, seersucker is recognizable by its puckered texture, achieved through different tensions in the weave. Its appearance can vary greatly: plain, striped, gingham, small checks or a more pronounced texture.

Its texture keeps part of the fabric slightly away from the skin, making it very comfortable in hot weather. It is perfectly suited to blouses, dresses, skirts, lightweight shirts and nightwear. As its crumpled effect is part of its charm, it generally requires very little ironing.

For that alone, it deserves a place in our summer suitcases!

Linen 

Breathable, thermoregulating and far more modern than you might think! Linen sometimes gets a bad press: “Yes, but Eugénie, linen creases!” That’s true; natural fabrics generally crease more than polyester. But they also breathe much better and are considerably more comfortable to wear as temperatures rise.

Linen is breathable, durable and thermoregulating. It is also widely grown in France, Belgium and the Netherlands. This makes it a particularly appealing fibre for our summer wardrobes. 

Washed linen 

Softer and easy to live with I’m particularly fond of washed linen. Its finish gives it greater softness and a gentler crumpled effect, which is truly part of the fabric’s charm. If you don’t like ironing, you can simply hang your garment up and embrace this lovely relaxed look. If you prefer an immaculate finish, linen of course responds very well to an iron.

Today’s linens also come in rich, vibrant colours, far removed from the image of linen as exclusively beige or somewhat dull. A beautiful raspberry, intense green or deep blue can be used to sew a simple piece with plenty of character. Thanks to its structure and durability, linen is suitable for shorts, trousers, playsuits, dresses, skirts and lightweight summer jackets, for both adults and children.

Linen-viscose 

Linen’s character with greater fluidity Do you like linen but find its drape a little too crisp or stiff for your project? Linen-viscose is a wonderful alternative. The viscose adds softness and movement while preserving linen’s natural appearance. It’s a superb fabric for a long dress, a full skirt, a blouse or flowing summer trousers. With a beautiful floral and butterfly print, for example, I can already picture the dress twirling… It’s stunning!

Viscose, Lyocell and Tencel™ 

For effortlessly fluid makes We now turn to very fluid fabrics.

I recommend them from an intermediate level onward, not because the seams are necessarily complicated, but because the fabric can shift during cutting and under the machine.

Viscose and Lyocell are what are known as man-made fibres: they are made from plant-based cellulose, which is processed to create a textile yarn. Tencel is a fibre brand, particularly of Lyocell. These fabrics feel supple, soft, and very pleasant against the skin. 

Lyocell and Tencel

Beautiful drape Tencel offers incredible drape, often with a slightly velvety feel. It is superb for making a skirt, blouse, dress, wide-leg trousers, or jumpsuit. If you dream of a jumpsuit that moves beautifully and really makes a statement, this is a fabric worth considering. Simply take your time with cutting: work on a large surface, avoid letting the fabric hang, and use plenty of weights or fine pins.

Viscose 

Lightweight and perfect for twirling dresses, viscose is one of the queens of summer dresses. It is fluid, lightweight, and very comfortable to wear. It is also ideal for blouses, skirts, and loose-fitting trousers.

For an easy little gathered skirt, sometimes all you need is two metres of viscose and a beautiful lurex elastic, and in one afternoon you’ll have a lightweight, comfortable piece that’s genuinely rewarding to sew.

However, the production of viscose can have very different impacts depending on the processes used. If this criterion is important to you, look for materials whose origin and production are better traceable, such as LENZING ECOVERO viscose. And to get to grips with this material without stress, I invite you to read my article dedicated to sewing viscose.

Which summer fabric should you choose for your project? 

If you’re still hesitating among all these options, here’s my brief summary:

If you’re a beginner, start with a cotton poplin or a sufficiently stable linen.

For a very lightweight garment for hot weather, choose a double gauze, cotton voile, or seersucker.

You dream of a fluid dress: choose linen-viscose, viscose, Lyocell or Tencel.

You’re looking for a chic finish: cotton sateen or cotton lawn will be perfect.

You want to sew durable shorts or trousers: choose linen or a sturdier cotton rather than a fine poplin.

You really don’t like ironing: choose seersucker, double gauze or the beautiful crinkled texture of washed linen.

And what if you want to learn how to recognise fabrics?

The world of textiles is vast, and nothing replaces touching the materials, comparing their drape and understanding their weave. That is exactly what we do during the “I Discover Fabrics” course. 

Marie-Hélène shares her knowledge with great passion and helps you better understand fibres, spinning, weaving, dyeing and the various finishes. The course takes place in a single session, which is very convenient if you live a little farther from Brussels. It’s up to you to create your summer wardrobe!

As you will have gathered, my summer wardrobe is based mainly on three broad families: cotton, linen and fluid cellulosic materials such as viscose or Lyocell.

Each has its advantages, and the right choice will always depend on the pattern, the desired drape, your sewing experience and, of course, your tastes. You can find our selection of fabrics online or come and touch and compare them in our two haberdashery workshops in Brussels, Ixelles and Woluwe-Saint-Lambert. We also ship our beautiful materials throughout Europe.

And you, which material do you most enjoy wearing when the weather is hot?

Tell me in the comments here or on social media, and let me know if you would like more articles or videos about fabrics, patterns and materials. JI would be delighted to hear from you!

Happy summer sewing, everyone. 

 To your needles!