Finally, summer is arriving in Belgium (and let’s hope it stays 😂)! 

It was time to give you a little top 10 of my favorite fabrics for summer sewing! Whether you’re packing your suitcase or spending your holidays in the garden, you’ll need to dress light and comfortable!

Let’s dive into discovering the recommended fabrics for summer!

Let’s go, here we go!

Selection criteria

First of all, let’s define together the criteria for a summer fabric. 

Criteria for fabric: 

1. Natural materials: the best choice for a feeling of freshness and comfort in summer. We don’t want to dress "in plastic" and sweat a lot in it, right?

Moreover, beyond the comfort these materials provide, dressing in natural or certified artificial materials is a small ecological contribution that should not be overlooked. 

2. Breathable materials: a fabric that lets air pass and allows the skin to breathe... comfort and freshness guaranteed! 

3. Lightweight materials: We look for fluidity, airy materials. So we avoid fabrics that are too thick or stiff that trap us. 

4. Easy-care materials: We choose fabrics that wash easily and last over time.

Personal criteria : 

1. your sewing level to be comfortable while sewing and not regret your choice at the crucial moment of assembly

2. colors and patterns: be careful to choose your fabric well because an eco-friendly garment is above all a garment you wear! Sewing is magical for that: choosing your fabric, choosing your colors, your patterns, your pattern... to wear it for a long time with pleasure and pride. I don’t know about you, but that’s what excites me!

3. budget. Yes, this one is necessary even though in our shop we always try to offer you excellent value for money and well... some materials have higher production costs...

4. wardrobe needs. To link with point 2... maybe we need more tops and light little dresses than a twentieth backless dress or a twelfth swimsuit...

For my part, even though I sew a lot, I always try to be consistent with the needs of my wardrobe so I don’t end up with too many tops that wouldn’t match my bottoms...

Washed linen 

Linen is a natural fiber, the only one still produced locally: a true short supply chain product!
Always in search of quality products that are as environmentally friendly as possible for my shop, I had to tell you about linen and offer it to you. When you think of linen, you probably imagine thick heavy toile or clothes that wrinkle... hold on, I’m stopping you right there!
Technology has evolved greatly and has been put to work improving textiles to counteract the small flaws linen can have. That’s why we recommend washed linen! 

Why use washed linen for your sewing projects, you ask? 
There are direct ecological and economic reasons. Indeed, by buying linen, you help finance the local French, Belgian, and Dutch economy while limiting your ecological impact.

Linen requires no watering (thank our weather) and very few phytosanitary products. 

For sewers, washed linen  offers:

- a soft touch thanks to the finishing it received after weaving
- has a nice patinated effect from the moment of purchase with a beautiful texture
- comes in an infinite range of colors
- has a color that stays stable over time (it does not fade and keeps its brightness)
- has a beautiful drape: heavy and fluid
- breathes... unlike synthetic materials...
- lets air pass in summer and gives a natural feeling of freshness
- is absorbent but does not leave moisture stains under the armpits when drying
- is biodegradable and eco-friendly
- is stronger than cotton (it holds up well over time)
- is considered an anti-allergenic and antibacterial fabric
- does not pill

For pattern choices, since linen has a nice structure and a fairly heavy drape, prefer patterns that highlight these qualities.  Patterns featuring drapes as well as those inspired by summer wardrobes will be perfect! I’m thinking especially of saharianas, belted shirt dresses, but also loose light blouses, summer jackets, wide pants...

Washed linen is recommended from beginner level

Seersucker

Seersucker does not come from England as its name might suggest but from India! Its history dates back to the 17th century. At that time, seersucker was not yet called seersucker but "shir o shekar," which translates to "milk and sugar" in Persian.
This rather poetic name comes from its tactile appearance:
- smooth and soft like milk
- rough and crisp like sugar. 

Indeed, seersucker is "puckered" and its feel offers us different sensations. Seersucker is very pleasant to wear in summer because it is:
- is lightweight
- lets air pass through thanks to its unique texture
- is sturdy and durable, perfect for frequent use and frequent washing
- is practically tear-proof thanks to its weave, perfect for adventurous toddlers! 

Favor garments with ease in seersucker to enhance the feeling of freshness and airflow. This fabric is incredibly light, making it an ideal choice for shirts, blouses, loose dresses, and even summer shorts! Seersucker also has the advantage of dressing the whole family since it is a fabric from the men's wardrobe as well. I also find it gives a very nice dandy look that you can either tone down or not! 
In short, seersucker offers a relaxed and trendy look, and we love it!
Plus, it is offered in plain, checked, and striped! 

Seersucker is recommended from intermediate level

3. Broderie anglaise

Broderie anglaise (and embroidered cottons) is truly my summer favorite!
By the way, I gave in again and sewed myself a canopée de Mimoï Pattern in the Japanese broderie anglaises we offer in coupons. 
Broderie anglaise has become a summer wardrobe classic. It is comfortable, breathable, and very pretty!  White or now available in many colors (even fluorescent), it is found in women's, children's, and even baby clothes! 

The advantages of broderie anglaise are numerous:
- it is a timeless fabric (you can recycle your sewing project year after year)  
- adapts to all types of clothing  
- flexible  
- non-stretchy 
- easy to cut and sew with a simple sewing machine 
- durable (since it is cotton, washing at 40C is no problem) 
- breathable because it is cotton 

For women's sewing, I recommend: the camisole top, the blouse with front buttons, the blouse with a low back, the shirt with a high collar (see Victorian), the romantic blouse with ruffles that allows playing with scalloped embroidery edges, a lined circle skirt, a dress with thin straps or knot straps for a perfectly romantic look, a butterfly sleeve dress, a ruffled dress...
For baby and children's sewing, we will go for baptism dress models, bloomers, little summer dresses, and small blouses! 

Broderie anglaise is recommended from beginner intermediate level

4. Double gauze

Double gauze is one of my favorite fabrics when the nice weather returns... it is true that double gauze is associated with babies, a crinkled airy fabric sometimes shapeless... not at all! Today, double gauze has evolved and becomes an ally of the women's wardrobe! We use it for blouses, dresses, light camisoles but also for slips and comfortable pajamas in hot weather. 

Double gauze is made by joining two layers of gauze together. These two layers are attached at regular intervals using small stitches that hold the whole together. These stitches are so discreet that they are undetectable to the naked eye on quality double gauze.

The fact of combining these two layers of gauze counters a disadvantage of single gauze, which is woven with spaced threads; double gauze is therefore much less transparent! This also has the advantage that we do not necessarily have to line the double gauze, which is very comfortable and can be worn directly on the skin. Moreover, having these two layers allows for a slightly heavier fabric, which has a nice drape comparable to linen.

Due to its weaving and composition, double gauze has many advantages.

Indeed, it is: 
- light 
- airy 
- breathable 
- absorbent 
- comfortable on the skin 
- soft
- fluid
- reversible
Easy to care for, it does not need ironing and dries very quickly.

It is for these characteristics that it is so often used for making baby and young children's clothing as well as summer garments. It is no surprise it developed so quickly in Asia and Japan, where many regions have hot and humid climates.

Double gauze met the need for lightweight, breathable, and comfortable clothing.

By the way, a well-known Japanese brand: Nani Iro offers amazing double gauzes... of which we have some rolls, feel free to explore our selection here.

Double gauze is recommended from the intermediate level 

5. Pointelle

Pointelle knit is a knit fabric, like jersey, french terry... Like all knit fabrics, due to its knitting, pointelle knit is comfortable and has some elasticity.

Moreover, it is light, airy, and breathable due to its 100% cotton composition.

So it is a very pleasant fabric to wear in summer, like double gauze.
Finally, this knit has a delicate pattern that gives it a soft and romantic touch, suitable for women's, children's, and baby clothing.  The particularity of pointelle is having open stitches in the knit forming a repetitive pattern; often chevrons, diamonds, squares...  
Its origin dates back to the 1950s and its name derives from "pointe" because it was defined as "lace" made using a point (instead of bobbins...). Then, the suffix "elle" was added, hence the name pointelle. 

Pointelle, with its open knit, is ideal for sewing lightweight cardigans you'll be happy to wear on summer evenings, as well as tops, light dresses, and nightwear. 

Pointelle is recommended from the intermediate level

6. cotton jersey

Let's stay with knits, with cotton jersey, the ultimate fabric for our t-shirts, tops...
But cotton jersey is also a must-have for making tank tops, sailor shirts... but also dresses, skirts, pajamas, panties... It’s pleasant to work with and can be sewn very quickly on a serger, sometimes with a bit of sewing machine or coverstitch machine for perfect hems!  

Plus, there are different textures and patterns: slub, ribbed, plain, floral, jungle print, naive motifs, vintage...

So we can have fun and create outfits to our taste. We play with T-shirt necklines: V-neck, square, cowl neck, boat neck, round, elastic under the bust... We actually have plenty of patterns and ideas... the only limit is creativity!  

For my part, I love wearing jersey dresses in summer! In fact, pattern designers offer us more and more jersey models like:
- Coralie Bijasson with the models: Envie, Alix, Azilys
- Instinct Couture with the models Vakita and Mésange
- Lamericana pattern with the Liberté model
- Lenaline with the models: Nata and Alex

Cotton jersey is recommended from the beginner/intermediate level.

7. Gingham

Yes, gingham, is that famous fabric used as tablecloths in Italian trattorias, for picnics, pretty aprons, and napkins! But it’s not just that! Fashion proves otherwise because gingham appears on runways worldwide! Brigitte Bardot and Barbie, get out of that body 😂! 

Gingham is a woven check pattern, made up of alternating bicolor stripes and a warp in matching tones.  The checks can have different sizes.  You can also find "mini" gingham with very tight checks or larger ones according to your preferences.
Gingham fabric originally stands out by its manufacturing method: "yarn-dyed." Unlike fabrics printed after weaving, the threads used to weave gingham are dyed beforehand. This technique allows for an identical pattern on both sides of the fabric, making it reversible. 

Today, gingham is found in all styles of clothing. However, I find that summer clothes, vintage style, cottagecore, or even steampunk garments generally benefit greatly from this pattern! 
For adult patterns, I think of the models from:
- Atelier Bernie with the Rose, Frida, and Françoise blouses but also the Jeanne, George, and Angela dresses!
- Nine sewing patterns with the Nina and Lise blouses
- Theodora Pattern
- Coralie Bijasson with the Ermine, Eudoxie, Epoque, Ethiopia blouses...
- but also Atribu patterns and its Cheyenne blouse! 
The little ones won’t be forgotten because what’s cuter than a romper, a bib, or a little princess dress... in mini gingham?

Gingham is recommended starting at the advanced beginner level

8. Cotton poplin 

Poplin is not a fabric but a weave with a particular thread composition; that is, a way of weaving the thread to create a piece of fabric. 

Plain weave: This weave consists of warp and weft threads interlaced in a grid pattern.
Poplin is a plain weave because a weft thread passes under only one warp thread and vice versa. 
Cotton threads: The warp threads are finer and therefore twice as numerous as the weft threads.
Note that the word poplin refers specifically to the weave; you can have cotton poplin, viscose, silk, or polyester poplin. Always ask what material your poplin is made of.

Cotton poplin has many advantages:
it is lightweight, 
- it is breathable
- soft on the skin
it holds its shape well (perfect for shirts)
it comes in all colors and patterns
it is easy to cut and sew
ironing is very easy
it is easy to care for

As you can see, cotton poplin is suitable for all sewers, especially beginners who will find great satisfaction in sewing this fabric. 

Recommended level: from advanced beginner

9. Viscose and tencel

Let's move on to two so-called artificial materials: viscose and tencel.

What is viscose?
Viscose is a regenerated fiber also made from cellulose. Viscose is what is called an artificial chemical fiber, meaning its production is done chemically but from natural fibers. So, viscose shares with cotton and linen the fact that it comes from natural fibers (cellulose) and shares with polyester the fact that it is obtained through chemical treatment. The patent for the invention of viscose was filed in 1892 by two English chemists, Cross and Bevan, who were working on wood fibers. In 1892, they managed to create a viscous bath they named viscose... In 1898, the first threads were created from this wood pulp, allowing the rapid weaving of fabrics that would compete with silk. After World War I, viscose spread and gradually became a wardrobe staple. 

What is tencel?
Tencel™ fiber is a plant-based fiber obtained from the cellulose of eucalyptus trees, bamboo, and/or deciduous trees. It is therefore an artificial synthetic fiber produced using the natural proteins of plants. The cellulose, in other words the pulp of these trees, is crushed and then dissolved using a natural, non-toxic, biodegradable solvent. The production of tencel is, like linen fabric production, environmentally friendly.  Note that tencel resembles viscose due to its fluid and silky nature; it is also known as vegetable silk. 

With viscose and tencel, you can sew patterns for pretty blouses, pants, and flowing dresses with loose cuts for lighter fabrics. With a heavier tencel or a viscose twill, jumpsuits, dresses, and wide pants are all yours...

The recommended sewing skill level to sew tencel and viscose is intermediate and up. 

10. Swimsuit lycra

We finish with the beach star: swimsuit lycra... so yes, the initial criteria are no longer met but it’s for your own safety because swimming in a cotton jersey or bamboo terry swimsuit is a guaranteed drowning 😂.
So yes, this time we are using synthetic materials but we sew one or two swimsuits if we don’t live by the sea! Let’s be reasonable!
Lycra fabric belongs to the knit fabric family like jersey. It is particularly stretchy to fit closely to the body. It follows movements, which is why it is most often used for swimwear but also leotards, dance bodysuits, yoga pants, leggings... originally lycra was designed to meet the needs of sportswear.  Lycra is most often made of synthetic materials (polyester, nylon, polyamide...) and always contains a certain percentage of elastane (spandex); this is the material that provides its stretch. 

We have seen that a major characteristic of lycra is its elasticity, but it has many other features. Here are the most important features:
- very stretchy
- returns to its original length after stretching (excellent recovery)
- quick-drying ability
- absorbs moisture 
- resistant to bacteria 
- sensitive to heat

At C'est du Joly you will find super quality lycra with excellent recovery (the most important in my opinion when sewing and wearing lycra).

Lycra is reserved for advanced sewers. 

So, with all that, we have plenty of choices! 

Feel free to browse our selection on the webshop or come visit us in store to get advice for your next sewing project. We will be delighted to welcome you.

Beautiful summer sewing to all,

Get your needles ready!