If you have the chance to stop by the shop, you’ve probably seen me in my uniform: jersey t-shirt over pants. I really enjoy making t-shirts: they are flattering garments, fun to sew, and very comfortable, which is a big plus on rather active days!
When Eugénie showed us the new collaboration she established with Instinct Couture, I fell for the Touraco jersey top. I’m eager to share it with you, and you’ll see, it has a lot of character!
Enjoy the read 😊
The model
Touraco plays the femininity card with a fitted and slightly retro design. All its charm lies in the neckline. The front neckline features a beautiful heart shape, while the back neckline contrasts with a square cut. The armhole lines (the arm circle passing through the shoulder and armpit) are straight at the shoulders, nicely revealing the throat. The sleeves are no less impressive: they are loose from the shoulder to the biceps for the short sleeve version or to the wrist for the long sleeve version and taper with a cuff.
My long sleeve version has quite a few gathers at the wrist, and I always find this detail very elegant on a garment. The model is very precise in its adjustments because the lengths of elastic and laminette needed for the neckline and sleeves are detailed for each size. This allows us to achieve a very neat finish. The same goes for the sleeve cuffs, for which we are invited to calculate their length based on our own wrist or biceps circumference. Since I have very slim wrists, this was very helpful to get a sleeve that fits me perfectly.
Practical information for sewing the model
Touraco is a model from the brand Instinct Couture available in PDF or printed on the website or in the shop. It is graded from size 32 to size 52.
The top is designed to be sewn with a knit fabric that has 20 to 40% elasticity. For good support of the front and back necklines, it’s better to choose a fabric with good structure, such as cotton jersey or interlock; viscose knits would be too soft for this model.
The cotton jerseys from the shop are very suitable for this model as they have an average elasticity of 30%.
The assembly process is really original. After applying laminette on the front and back necklines, the body is assembled at the sides. Then the sleeves are made separately with the application of armhole bands (which are casings) and elastics slipped inside them. Finally, the sleeve is closed at the underarm seam. Then the formed sleeves are attached to the body.
Fanny, the Instinct Couture designer, did wonders in the instruction booklet. It guides us step by step through the assembly with clear texts and diagrams. The techniques are also detailed, and it’s very pleasant to have explanations of the steps, which helps better understand the actions and improve skills.
In the seamstress’s basket
To make Touraco, you will need:
- For the short sleeve version: 1m of cotton jersey with a width of 140 cm
- For the long sleeve version: 1.4m of cotton jersey with a width of 140 cm
For both versions:
- 1.5m of transparent laminette
- 1m of elastic 10 to 20 mm wide
- matching thread
- a jersey needle
- Depending on the chosen finish: a special twin needle for jersey
My supplies
For my version, I chose a jersey with bold patterns! I wanted a somewhat baroque look and I don’t regret my choice at all: the “big flowers on off-white background” jersey. It’s a cotton jersey weighing 200g per m2, with the structure needed to hold the shape of the model.
Many seams are done with the serger, which I threaded with white cones, but don’t skip the jersey needle: Touraco has quite a few seams to sew specifically with the sewing machine.
For my thread, I used Gütermann’s white 800.
My supplies
For my version, I chose a jersey with bold patterns! I wanted a somewhat baroque look and I don’t regret my choice at all: the jersey “big flowers on off-white background.” It’s a cotton jersey weighing 200g per m2, with the structure needed to hold the shape of the model.
Many seams are done with the serger, which I threaded with white cones, but don’t skip the jersey needle: Touraco has quite a few seams to sew specifically with the sewing machine. For my thread, I used Gütermann’s white 800.
My version
Regarding size, I started with a 36 at the bust, which I widened at the hips up to the 42-44 mid-waist, and the fit is perfect. I preferred long sleeves to give my garment more presence.
Skill level and technical points
Fanny rates this model as difficulty 3/5. I agree because the assembly, handling of elastic and laminette require concentration. Touraco will be easier to approach if you have already sewn jersey and assembled a t-shirt. With patience, a motivated beginner can successfully take on this challenge, I’m sure!
My sewing experience
I really enjoyed sewing this jersey top. Its silhouette and assembly process are radically different from models I’ve sewn before, and I was very happy to discover new ways to think about making a t-shirt. One thing’s for sure, I’ll make more! ^^ And if you want to sew Touraco but don’t dare to start alone, don’t forget the serger advanced workshop specially designed to support you in more complex jersey/french terry projects.
I would be delighted to guide you in making your Touraco!
Find Touraco and all Instinct Couture patterns here.
Also find our beautiful collection of plain and patterned jersey here.
All that’s left is to get started! Grab your needles!
