Making buttonholes is a dreaded moment for both beginner and experienced sewers... Because after spending hours sewing, you don’t want to ruin the buttonholes, which often are the final step of a sewing project!

 So, I thought I’d write a little article about buttonholes because even if your sewing machine has an automatic buttonhole option... there are still some guidelines to follow to get them right.

So, I invite you to discover some of my tips for making beautiful buttonholes!

First step: preparation and basic rules 

Before starting to make buttonholes, be sure to interface the pieces that will receive the buttonholes: button placket, cuffs, collar, skirt or pants waistband... this provides stability during sewing, structure to these strategic parts, and also extends their lifespan. 

If you’re confused about interfacings (fusibles), don’t hesitate to take a look at the article dedicated to them.

Basic rules for creating buttonholes

Buttonholes have a direction: either vertical or horizontal. The choice depends on the type of garment.

Vertical buttonholes are intended for the button plackets of shirts, blouses, and tops (except the collar).

 Horizontal buttonholes are intended for pants, skirts, coats, jackets... to which we add the shirt collar stand and cuffs. 

Placement direction 

I already mentioned it in my article about buttons which you can find here, there is a convention for placing buttons and buttonholes.

For women, buttons are placed on the left and buttonholes on the right.

For men, it's the opposite: buttons are placed on the right and buttonholes on the left. 

To choose the placement and spacing of the buttons, I advise you to always start with the "strategic" spots that will ensure the garment closes well, especially for tops. 

For women, it’s important to place the button at the bust line well (to avoid accidental openings) and at the waistline.

For "slim" men, I always try to start with the top button closing the collar and the start of the shirt. For men with a bit of a belly, the button at the waistline will also be important to place well.   

Second step: Choosing the buttons

One moment I love is choosing and placing the buttons! It’s so joyful to see your sewing project come together! To be honest, I have a personal stash of buttons that I regularly dip into; I then place my little selection on the fabric somewhat randomly to choose the button I like best.

Most of the time, the patterns indicate the size of the buttons, their number, and their placement. You can follow these instructions or, like me, decide yourself the number and spacing of the buttons you have selected. 

My little tip: Always buy one or two extra buttons in case you accidentally lose one, as it can be difficult to find a similar button months or even years later. 

Third step: determine the size of the buttonhole

There are two main techniques to determine the size of the buttonhole based on a button you have selected:

•  Or you measure the diameter of the button and add the thickness of the button; this equals the length of the buttonhole. 
• Either you make a "practice" buttonhole on a scrap of fabric and measure the size of the buttonhole.  

For my part, I prefer the second method which also allows me to check if my machine is properly set before starting on my final piece. Once the button is chosen and the buttonhole length determined, all that’s left is to mark it! Carefully mark the placement of the buttons and buttonholes on your fabric using your chalk.

For my part, I always use chalk pens (with interchangeable colored leads). This greatly facilitates the process. On the side where you need to make the buttonholes, transfer the width of the button or the length of the test buttonhole you made beforehand and draw a straight line that will serve as a guide.     

For spacing, I can only recommend using a buttonhole ruler which ensures regular spacing of buttonholes and buttons. 

Using a buttonhole ruler

Since I started using this tool, I never let it go and I added one to the workshop’s kit for the students! I love this tool because it simplifies and speeds up the marking process. It really saves a lot of time, especially if, like me, you like to change the spacing and/or the number of buttons planned by the pattern maker. 

 Indeed, the buttonhole ruler allows you to quickly calculate the spacing needed. Simply open/spread it and the distance will be equal between the different marking points. Then all that’s left is to mark the fabric! Buttonhole rulers generally allow you to position 8 buttons with spacing from 1.5 to 8cm. You can find them in the shop by following this link. 

Step four: make the buttonhole

This is the big moment!  Install the special buttonhole presser foot and select the buttonhole pattern you want to make. You will find explanations of the different buttonhole patterns in your machine's user manual; it can be helpful to read it, especially when you have many patterns available.  

Whether your machine makes buttonholes automatically or you have to make them manually in several steps, I recommend doing a test to be sure everything is in order. I also advise you to open your test buttonhole and try passing one of the buttons you selected through it... this avoids many dramas!  

Once this test is done, all that's left is to get started.  One last tip, make sure your bobbin is full because it's really annoying when you run out of thread in the middle of the buttonhole. 

Fifth step: cut the buttonhole 

 The much-feared step and... you must not mess it up!  There are several methods: 

•  at the buttonhole opener / buttonhole cutter 
• at the seam ripper
• at the embroidery scissors

For my part, I use small embroidery scissors, traumatized by a seam ripper accident. I find I have much more precision with my small scissors. You can also find some in the shop with several nice designs. 

I'm tempted by the buttonhole cutter... I'll try it and get back to you with the results because - apparently - it looks great.

Bonus sixth step: sewing buttons 

I couldn't finish this article without talking to you about sewing buttons. 

 1. Take a thread not too long to avoid tangling it. 

 2 Thread it doubled. You can use a handy needle threader, especially if your eyesight is weakening. You will get a loop at the end.  

 3. Insert your needle at the button's location, pull it out a little further near the button's spot, and pass the needle through the loop. And voilà, the knot is made!   

 4. Sew your button (depending on its shape: shank, 2 holes, 4 holes...) by passing through the different holes.   

 5. If you wish, you can wrap the thread a few times between the button and the fabric to "lift" the button off the fabric. This is especially recommended for thick fabrics like wool.  

 6. Make your final knot.  

 Ta-da! The button is sewn and secured!  

There you go, now you know how to make buttonholes... all that's left is to get started!