When we talk about velvet, we might imagine "period" drapes, theater curtains, but also brown ribbed pants and shorts for toddlers' winter... yet velvet is much more than that!
For several years now, velvet has been making a comeback in fashion. Because of its softness, texture, patterns, and originality, velvet has nothing to be ashamed of compared to chiffon or pretty knits.
Today, velvet plays the chic card with softness while remaining affordable, fun to sew, and comfortable to wear.
Velvet bodysuit - Lizaig model by Marie Poisson
Burda dress in burnout velvet sewn for the brand's 70th anniversary contest in 2020
Velvet is therefore not strictly a unique material or fabric but a weave. You will find velvets such as: cut velvet, corduroy, panne velvet, burnout velvet, ribbed, quilted, and more...
This weave is characterized by combining, in addition to the classic warp and weft threads, one or more extra threads called "pile threads." These threads are embedded in the weft and form loops on the fabric's surface (on one side only). These loops may be left uncut (as in terry cloth) or cut (as in the case of cut velvet).
Because of the presence of loops on only one side of the fabric, you understand that the two sides of the velvet are very different and will influence how it is worked. The back side will often have a matte and smooth surface, while the front side will have a surface made of small, short, upright, and tightly packed fibers all oriented in one direction.
And yes, just like with a cat, the velvet fibers have a direction and should be stroked in the direction of the nap...
What are its strengths?
Because of its softness, velvet is pleasant to wear. However, be careful with its composition because, as you might have guessed, there are silk velvets (very expensive), cotton velvets,... but also polyester ones that react very differently to body odors. So be sure to check the velvet’s composition and weight before buying.
Velvet is relatively thick and keeps you quite warm. Moreover, it is sturdy and ages well. It is perfect for sewing dresses, jackets, and pants that will be worn in winter but also in mid-season.
Another good point about velvet is that it does not fray when cut.
Naelle jacket by Coralie Bijasson
Paul pants by Coralie Bijasson
What are the points to watch?
As we saw earlier, velvet has a nap and its nap has a direction that must be respected for your sewing pieces...
When placing your pattern pieces
Check that your pattern pieces respect the grainline and that they are oriented in the same direction of the nap. Otherwise, you risk having pieces with slightly different shades because of a shadow effect; also, when you run your hand over your garment, you will feel the nap direction change (softness effect compromised)...
For your information, velvet looks darker when the nap is facing up.
When cutting the pieces
When you need to cut a piece on the fold, fold the velvet in half so that the dots are inside; this will make it easier to cut the fabric.
It is always easier to pin the pattern pieces on the wrong side of the fabric, this will make pinning and cutting easier. Also, if you need to make chalk markings, this will only be possible on the wrong side of the fabric; the right side has a nap, so your chalk won’t last long and you will lack precision.
It is also important not to crush the nap, so prefer pinning with weights to hold your pattern pieces.
When ironing
It’s best to iron velvet on the reverse side. If you need to iron, use another piece of fabric between the iron and the velvet to protect your fabric. To open a seam, gently press with the tip of the iron to focus on the seam. The risk is marking your velvet, which is called shining.
What sewing skill level is needed to start sewing velvet?
While an experienced level is needed for panne velvet, this is not the case for corduroy or fine-wale velvet, which can be sewn starting at an intermediate sewing level (no longer a beginner but not yet an expert).
You can start by sewing a dress or a skirt, which will be easier at first, then move on to more complex pieces like pants or jackets.
In the shop, we offer 100% cotton corduroy velvets that are perfect for starting to sew with this fabric.
Ditte dress from La Maison Victor in fine-wale velvet
Ditte dress from La Maison Victor in corduroy velvet
What materials and sewing techniques are needed to sew velvet?
As usual, choose a needle based on the thickness of your velvet—the thicker it is, the higher the needle size should be.
Preferably use a new needle to start your project and don’t hesitate to test on velvet scraps before working on the final pieces.
Depending on the thickness of the velvet, it can be more aesthetic to lengthen the stitch, just like when sewing denim. And for very thick velvet, a walking foot can be helpful.
To sew velvet, a standard polyester thread will be perfect.
How to care for it?
Velvet should be washed inside out to preserve the fabric and especially its lovely surface fibers. Check its composition and care instructions.
I hope this little article taught you some basics about velvet... there is so much to say about this beautiful fabric that I love.
Come on, all that's left to do is get started! Grab your needles!
