I had a crazy desire to sew new dresses with the sun back in Belgium!
A design had been on my wish list for several years and it was high time to sew: the Canopée dress by Mimoï!
It's a super feminine dress; it highlights the waist and bust, with a slightly vintage cut... basically everything I love!
It's also a dress with a few small sewing challenges and I really like that! It is well constructed and allows you to learn lots of new techniques.
So follow me in making my Canopée dress!
Let's get started! https://www.cestdujoly.be/collections/patrons/mimoi
The design
The bodice of the Canopée dress features a very deep neckline (deep V neck) that sits below the bust line. However, it is narrow enough to be comfortable and not reveal anything! The center front closes edge to edge thanks to a buttoning with loops. A facing is sewn under the buttons so that the skin is not revealed… Gathers are placed under the bust and on the back. The belt marks the waist while highlighting the bust. The skirt is gathered at the waist and gives a nice movement to the dress. The balloon sleeves echo the overall volume of the dress and the shape of the sleeve cuffs reflects the belt.
It is possible to modify the plunging V to "tame" the bodice. That's what I did to feel comfortable in all situations. I wanted it to be a wearable dress even when I work, lift tons of rolls, bend down, lean over... basically a dress that follows me in all my activities without revealing too much of myself!
Information for sewing the design
Canopée is a Mimoï design and is available in PDF version on our website. The printed version is not published by the brand.
Canopée is graded from size 34 to 46 for a waist measurement between 60 and 84cm.
It is possible to grade it up to larger sizes for those with some experience in pattern making.
Seam allowances are included and are 1cm.
In the seamstress's basket
Canopée must be sewn in woven fabric. It can be sewn in many materials such as Tencel/lyocell, viscose poplin/crepe/twill, silk, cotton poplin, linen, chambray, double gauze, or even broderie anglaise?
The necessary supplies are:
- 2m of fabric 140cm wide
- fusible interfacing, 45 cm by 90cm wide
- 12mm buttons x12 if you choose the button loop option
- a bias turner, to turn the button loop tape (0.5cm wide)
- bias tape for the more advanced version
- good quality thread
- serger cones if desired
My version and my supplies
Canopée is a fairly fitted dress. So I chose to cut it in size 36 with a slight widening at the waist to size 38 to be sure I could wear it to the restaurant with my boyfriend!
I selected a beautiful cotton poplin from the brand Riffle Paper Co that had caught my eye in the store's stock for some time. With its pretty floral pattern and colors, I knew it would make an excellent combination.
Since the fabric is 110cm wide (and I wear a small size), I was able to fit all my pieces into 2.5m of fabric. Since I wanted to wear it in all situations and feel comfortable, I raised the neckline of the bodice by 7cm.
I also decided not to make button loops but to use a buttonhole elastic; these are the same ones used for wedding dresses. I thought it would be very pretty to have more small buttons on the front of the dress. I created an alternating pattern of button pairs with a space of one button between each pair.
For the other supplies, I selected a 20mm orange bias tape matching the flower patterns, a navy buttonhole elastic, 22 buttons from my personal stash, H200 fusible interfacing for the facings, and a good thread matching my fabric. I threaded my serger with navy cones and off I went!
Difficulty level and technical points
I would say Canopée is aimed at intermediate to advanced sewists. I myself really enjoyed sewing it and finding finishing options in the assembly guide: easy, intermediate, and more difficult. This allows sewists to adapt the finishes to their level. It's very well thought out by Isabelle, the creator of Mimoï.
For the technical points, you will need to:
- assemble the bodice
- make gathers
- attach the facing (with finishing option)
- make and attach loops or sew an elastic with buttonholes
- make a placket
- set in the sleeves with a sleeve cuff
- sew a waistband
- assemble the skirt
- sew buttons
- make a hem
The inner waistband is finished with hand sewing for a haute couture look. However, it is also possible to simplify this step by topstitching or sewing the waistband in the seam.
My sewing experience
Let's be honest... I loved sewing this dress and trying it on along the way. I think it's both because I had wanted to sew it for several years and because of the combination of the pattern with my beautiful fabric.
The more I progressed in my sewing, the more satisfied and happy I was to have taken on this pattern despite the 2 hours spent hand-sewing the inner waistband and the 22 buttons. Nothing comes without effort, as they say!
I find the explanatory booklet very complete without being overloaded with details; which makes reading and sewing smooth and enjoyable.
I'm glad I chose the beautiful finish option for the facing; the orange bias adds a touch of color inside the dress.
I think you can see it in the photos, I feel so good in my new dress!
This time, I didn't "time" my sewing for making my version, but roughly count on at least 8 hours of work minimum depending on your level.
So, ready to take on some sewing challenges?
And why not a Canopée dress.
Get your needles ready!
