There is one sewing quest I have struggled to complete: finding the perfect shorts 😂! I find it surprisingly hard to find a pair that looks good and feels right. I do not want anything too sporty, I am not a fan of Bermuda shorts, I do not want something overly dressy, and the tiny shorts of my youth are no longer really for me.
For Japan, however, I like having shorts for walks in nature, so I looked for a high-waisted pattern with beautiful finishing that would work equally well on a trail and in the city 😁. I searched my personal pattern library and rediscovered Cobalt by Caledonia Dreamin, which I had bought years ago, before we even sold patterns ourselves. I took it as a sign: I had to sew it!
The pattern
Cobalt trousers/shorts have no zip and no fly. They open and close through a concealed opening inside one pocket. The waist is very high, the upper part is fitted, and the trouser versions can be beautifully wide through the leg. All the finishes are designed so the garment looks as good inside as it does outside, which I love.
Cobalt comes in three versions: shorts, straight-leg trousers and wide-leg trousers.
The shorts version
The different Cobalt versions
Practical information
All Caledonia Dreamin patterns are available on our platform in PDF format only. They are in French, with very detailed instructions and lots of diagrams, so they are easy to follow. Cobalt runs from size 32 to 52, corresponding to a waist measurement of about 60 to 106 cm. Seam allowances are included.
In the sewing basket
This pattern works with medium- to heavyweight woven fabrics, depending on the look you want. For shorts, fabrics such as wool, denim, corduroy or linen give good structure. For trousers you can use the same fabrics or choose something more fluid for an elegant drape.
Allow roughly 80 cm of fabric for size 32 up to 1.1 m for the largest size. You will also need suitable interfacing, 30 cm of cotton poplin for the pocket bags, 2 m of bias tape and two buttons.
My supplies
I used a remnant of denim, the same fabric I had already used for my Sunshine jeans by I AM Patterns (article here) and Fauvette by Instinct Couture (article here). It is the denim we sell in store, and I find it very comfortable.
I also used a floral cotton poplin left over from one of our Joly Remnants. I had already made a strappy top from it and liked the idea of wearing both pieces together. I chose G700 interfacing, yellow bias tape, two vintage glass buttons brought back from Japan, and thread: navy for construction and pale yellow for the bias binding, plus navy cones for the overlocker.
Technical points
Cobalt is best suited to intermediate sewists because it is a fitted garment and, although it has no fly, it includes several interesting techniques. The main steps are darts, pocket construction and facings, bias binding, the waistband facing, hems, buttonholes and buttons. Nothing impossible, but there is plenty to learn.
My sewing experience
I was pleasantly surprised by the construction of these shorts without a fly or side zip. I had already sewn sailor-style trousers, but this method is different again, and I love learning new techniques. I chose size 36, which matched my measurements. During sewing I tried the shorts on and slightly adjusted the back darts so they followed the curve of my lower back more closely.
I especially liked the care given to the finishes, with bias binding on the pocket at the opening side and on the waistband facing. It immediately makes the garment feel different from ready-to-wear. The brand gives very detailed instructions and I did not run into any difficulty.
Applying bias binding to the waistband facing
Applying bias binding to the pockets
Finishing the bias binding and buttons
I am delighted with my shorts: they are very comfortable and perfect for my Japanese adventures, including feeding little rabbits! The finishes are genuinely beautiful and I love them ❤️.
I think I will make a wide-leg trouser version of Cobalt too. It should be perfect for the start of autumn. And you, do you like wearing shorts in the warmer months?
Find all Caledonia Dreamin patterns here.
To your needles!
