In Search of the Perfect Shorts: I Sew Cobalt by Caledonia Dreamin

There’s a quest I find hard to complete in sewing... the search for the perfect shorts 😂!

I don’t know about you, but for me it’s really hard to find nice shorts that I feel comfortable in.

I don’t like shorts that look too sporty, I don’t like bermudas, I don’t like shorts that look "too" dressy, and I’m no longer really the age to wear the mini shorts of my youth... basically, a struggle!

For going to Japan, I like to have a shorts option for nature walks, and I started looking for a pattern that would meet all my wishes: high-waisted shorts with beautiful finishes, that I can wear on walks but that also work well in the city 😁.

I went through my personal pattern collection and came across Cobalt by Caledonia Dreamin that I had bought several years ago, even before we started selling patterns ourselves.

I thought it was a sign and that I had to sew it!

It was on, I’m sharing my sewing adventure here.

The pattern

The Cobalt Pants/Shorts has the particularity of having no zipper or fly. It opens and closes through a hidden opening in one of the pockets. It has a very high waist, is fitted at the top, and flares out at the legs for those who choose the pants version.

All the finishes are designed so that it looks as beautiful inside as outside, and I love that!

Cobalt is available in 3 variations:
- shorts
- straight leg pants
- wide leg pants

The shorts version

The different versions offered for the Cobalt pattern

Practical information for sewing this pattern

All Caledonia Dreamin sewing patterns are available on our platform in PDF format only.

They are in French and the instructions are perfect! Indeed, the explanations are well detailed and the diagrams are numerous. It's very easy to follow. The shorts/pants are available from size 32 to 52, which corresponds to a waist measurement between 60 and 106cm.

Seam allowances are included and that's great!

In the seamstress's basket

This pattern suits all types of medium to heavy woven fabrics depending on the desired look.

For the shorts version, it will hold better with a fabric like: wool fabric, denim, corduroy, linen

For the pants version, you can use the same type of fabric but also more fluid fabrics for an elegant draped look.

For the fabric, count between 80cm for size 32 up to 1.1m for the largest size.

Add:
- some fusible interfacing suitable for the fabric
- 30cm of cotton poplin for pocket linings
- 2m of bias tape
- 2 buttons

My supplies

I chose to use a scrap of denim, the one I had already used to sew my Sunshine jeans from iam Patterns (find the article here) and Fauvette from Instinct couture (find the article here).

It’s the denim that we sell in the shop and I feel super comfortable in it.

I also used a floral cotton poplin that comes from a scrap of our joly coupon, our 3m coupons. I had made a pretty strappy top in this fabric and thought it would be nice to wear both together.

I chose G700 fusible interfacing to give the waistband good structure.
Finally, I picked a yellow bias tape for finishing the facing and pockets.

I selected from my button stash: 2 pretty glass buttons that I brought back from Japan several years ago and that were waiting for the right project.

It’s done now!

Latest material, the thread! I took navy blue for sewing and pale yellow for assembling the bias tape. I also took blue cones for my serger.

Technical details

The Cobalt shorts/pants are intended for sewists from the intermediate level because it remains a fitted piece and even though it doesn’t have a fly, Cobalt has quite a few interesting technical details.

I was actually delighted to make it because I learned new ways to assemble shorts without a zipper.

The technical points are:
- the clips
- assembling the pockets and their facings (sometimes curved 😊
- attaching bias tape on the fold
- attaching the facing
- the hems
- creating buttonholes and sewing on buttons.

My sewing experience

I was pleasantly surprised by the assembly of these shorts without a fly and without a side zipper.

I had already assembled pants with a fly front but this assembly is different and I love discovering new methods!

I chose to sew a size 36 which matched my measurements.

While sewing, I tried on the shorts and adjusted the back clips a bit so the shorts fit my curve better. I really appreciated the care given to the finishes with the use of bias tape on the pocket side opening and the waistband facing. It immediately makes a difference compared to ready-to-wear.

The brand provides very detailed instructions and I encountered no difficulties.